Batticaloa

Understand

Batticaloa is the capital of the district of the same name. The town itself began on Puliyanthivu, an island in the lagoon, which is now linked to the mainland by three road bridges. This island contains the old town and many of the historical attractions. Today, Batticaloa is a regional trading hub, especially for local crops of rice and coconuts. This strategically-located town has been fought over many times, and was first captured the Portuguese in 1622. The Dutch took it in 1638, and were ousted by the British in 1796. The LTTE (Tamil separatists) controlled the area during the 1980s until it was retaken in 1991 by government troops. The area suffered immensely from the December 2004 tsunami.

The lagoon is famous for its "singing fish", thought thought to be a type of fish releases air from a swim-bladder, which creates different "songs". This phenomenon has been documented since the colonial era but the details remain hazy. Research into the phenomenon was suspended during the civil war, at first because the government was no longer in control of the area, and later when the lagoon was made off-limits after a nightly curfew. If you go on a tour of the lagoon late at night, the boatman will cut the motor and hand you an oar. You dip the oar in the water, press your ear to the handle end, and listen. Traditionally, local fishermen have navigated the lagoon at night by the different sounds they hear in the water.

Hinduism is the major religion of Batticaloa. Batticaloa h…

Get around

The old town is very compact, so is easily walkable. Tuk-tuks are available, but agree on a price before departing. A rule of thumb is Rs. 100 per kilometre. Also, public Sri Lankan Transport Board buses and private bus/van service are available.

See

thumbnail|Batticaloa Fort seen from Northeast. thumb|right|Batticaloa Gate

Do

Hotels and travel agents can organise singing fish tours. Around Rs. 1500 pp, minimum 2, maximum 8 per boat. After 22:00, duration around 1 hour. The singing fish are best heard when skies are clear, although hearing them cannot be guaranteed. Swimming, especially at Pasikudah beach, which has calm water. Boat travel from Batticaloa lighthouse to Batticaloa Fort (about 3 km) is recommended. Bird watching with local guide. Seasonal & migrating birds visit the area. Kudumbimalai (literally "Hair-knot-rock") is a recommended place for bird watching. Watch the traditional folk dance kuthu being performed during Hindu festivals or other special events.

Buy

Batticaloa shops have local souvenirs, which represent Batticaloa, with drawings of “singing fish” – a mythical image of a mermaid.

Eat

Prawn, crab curd and cashew nuts are famous in Batticaloa. Seafood is common. Sri Lankan and Indian cuisines are available, including Western food at hotels.

Drink

Tap water is mostly from wells, and its quality has declined as of 2020, mainly due to contamination by agricultural run-off. Stick to Bottled water. Coconut water is also common and beer and toddy are available.

Stay safe

On 21 April 2019 the Zion Church was targeted by militant Islamic suicide bombers. At least 28 people were reported dead.

Go next

Arugam Bay, about 85 km south from Batticaloa, is a popular surfing and tourist destination. Two daily direct buses at 06:00 and 10:00. Rs. 135, 5-6 hours. Stops for 1 hour in the town of Akuraivili. Tuk-tuks offer to take travellers directly from there to Arugam Bay for Rs.1500, but you could just wait for an hour for the bus to continue and not spend any additional money. The bus ride ends in town of Pottuvil, which is about 3-5 km to most guesthouses in Arugam Bay. Tuk-tuks ask for Rs. 1500. Or you could walk if no luggage; it's pleasant and flat. Pasikudah is a popular tourist destination, 35 km north, with beaches and flat year-round warm-water shallow-lagoons. There are inexpensive hotels and food. Polonnaruwa, west of Batticaloa, is an ancient capital city of Sri Lanka and listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It has ruins and bird- and elephant-watching places. Also, it connects with popular sites of Sigiriya and Dambulla. Trincomalee