Baucau

Understand

thumb|View of the Mercado Municipal in the Cidade Velha (old town) Baucau has always played second fiddle to Dili in terms of national relevance. But the town has a backdrop that is just as scenic as that of Dili, with dramatic cliffs skirting the town.

Like Dili, Baucau suffered from the post-referendum carnage in 1999 where many of the main administrative buildings were burnt down. Departing Indonesian troops and the mobs they sponsored ripped out all infrastructure and utilities, leaving it without electricity and telephones. Baucau has since recovered, although you can still see many gutted buildings.

Baucau's administrative centre is located at the foot of the cliffs that overlook the town. There is a large colonial hall surrounding a small fountain that was used for public addresses in colonial times. Nowadays you are more likely to see a goat wandering through than any colonial administrators. The real action now happens up on the cliffline - an area called Kota Baru (Indonesian for "New Town") which was developed during the Indonesian era - where the UN and now the Timorese government have set up shop.

Get around

Some taxis shuttle passengers around the city for US$1 (although locals pay less). Further journeys, such as to Manatuto will cost more.

Mikrolets (vans converted to take passengers) may also be flagged down.

Most foreigners who are in Baucau for any length of time will hire or buy a scooter or motorbike. There is a large demand for second hand motos, so ask around town for any deals. You can usually resell quite easily when you move on.

Eat

The local food, KULU, is well known in the country and has become the identity of the district.

Drink

The handmade liquor, "tua sabu", is also worth trying.

Sleep

Loro-Sae Guesthouse: in the Old Town, US$ 10 / night Vitoria Cafe: in the "Old Town" (Rua Vila Antigua Bacau), US$ 10 / night for a simple room with fan. Food available. Bus from Dili can drop you there. Phone +670 726 3569, +670 729 7970