Bordeaux

Understand

Bordeaux and the whole province of Aquitaine came under English rule for 300 years from 1154, when Eleanor of Aquitaine married the future King Henry II. The English rulers enjoyed drinking the wines of Bordeaux, but they enjoyed the profits even more – trade with Bordeaux was their largest source of income. Most wine came from the Graves region just upriver from the city, and this was a clear, deep rosé called clairet, still produced today. The English came to call any Bordeaux red wine “claret”.

In 1453 France took control of Aquitaine and cut off the supply to England, who ceased to drink wine for the next 500 years, turning to beer and gin. This caused a slump in Bordeaux, which only revived from the 16th century through trans-Atlantic trade. The city then prospered through the 18th century, when most of its fine buildings were erected, and it provided the model for Baron Haussmann's 19th-century remodelling of Paris. Bordeaux also came to eclipse other French Atlantic ports such as Bayonne and La Rochelle. Much of the wealth was based on the triangular slave trade: sugar, rum and other plantation products were shipped to France from the Americas and Caribbean, France shipped industrial wares to Africa, whence the slaves were sent west to work those plantations.

Bordeaux suffered a human cost in later turmoils: the French Revolution, Napoleonic wars, and First and Second World Wars. But the damage to buildings was small enough to be repaired, rather than needing whole-s…

Get around

thumb | 300px | Pont-de-Pierre

See

thumb | 300px | Église Sainte-Croix

is the broad leafy square at the focus of the west riverbank. The ornate Girondins Memorial commemorates those guillotined here after that faction lost the power struggle with the Montagnards in 1793, and the Revolution descended into a "Reign of Terror". The square is nowadays a transport hub - just about every city bus and tram route passes through it. Port of the Moon is the elegant waterfront crescent centred on Place des Quinconces that earned Bordeaux its UNESCO citation. You get a sublime view from the opposite riverbank at dusk.

Do

National Opera is on Place de la Comédie, 100 m south of Place des Quinconces. As well as opera it hosts ballet and musicals.

Buy

Bordeaux has made its wealth out of trade, and the local economic system relies heavily on shops and trading halls. The Pedestrian Centre is full of stores of all kinds, from clothes to art, craftworks, food and wine. For luxury items, head to Gambetta Square and its surroundings.

Buy some local music: Kap Bambino is an electronic music duo formed by singer Caroline Martial and beat-smith boyfriend Orion Bouvier.

Clothing is less expensive than in Paris, so wear comfortable shoes and head to Rue Sainte Catherine, the longest pedestrian precinct in Europe and the best place for shopping. For some cheap second-hand and vintage clothes, try KiloChic on 40 Cours de la Somme. There are also a few AMOS second-hand stores in the city that offer a nice selection of second-hand and vintage stuff.

If you buy wine, do it in town (duty paid) to go in checked baggage; the airport's not a good place because of tourist-trappy prices, limited selection and carry-on limits. Keep receipts handy, your own country probably has a bigger customs allowance for wine that's duty-paid.

Drink

thumb | 300px | Rose window of St Michael's Basilica

Place de la Victoire is the main place for pubs and bars, while night-clubs are on the Quais near the railway station.

Connect

As of Sept 2021, Bordeaux has 5G from all French carriers. Wifi is widely available in public places, transport, cafes and so on.

Stay safe

Usual advice about care of valuables, traffic, and avoiding low-life. The city is not immune to pickpocketing and drink-spiking.

Go next

North: Soulac-sur-Mer at the tip of the Medoc peninsula is almost engulfed by sand dunes. West is the Atlantic Ocean and long sandy beaches. Arcachon is an attractive small seaside town. East is the UNESCO heritage village of Saint-Émilion, and top-rank wine châteaux. South is the Graves region. The river valley is lined with chateaux and big-name vineyards.