Bukhara

Understand

thumb | 300px | A Bukhara carpet This city dates back at least 2500 years. It became Islamic after the Arab conquest of 751 AD, blossoming into a religious and cultural centre under the 9th / 10th century Samanid dynasty. It was sacked by Genghiz Khan in 1220; in the following century Timur embellished many of the cities he conquered but power and artistic patronage lay in Samarkand. The heyday of Bukhara, and basis for what you see today, came under the Shaybanid khanate from 1506 until 1598, especially under Abdullah Khan II the last of that lineage. Town centre was a vast marketplace astride the Silk Road, festooned with medressas, mosques, caravanserai and specialist bazaars.

That dynasty died out, with a bit of help from rival daggers, but semi-autonomy and an Emirate of Bukhara persisted for over 300 years. Nevertheless the glory days were gone: remarkably for a city 2200 km from the open sea, Bukhara was sunk by European shipping. Better shipping construction and navigation meant that western merchants traded with the Far East by sea, where they only had pirates and typhoons to contend with, rather than struggle overland on the Silk Road through banditry, local wars, plagues, moribund camels and corrupt officials.

From the early 19th century western powers vied for control, and the main contest was the "Great Game" between Britain and Russia. The realities of geography meant that Britain dominated maritime routes and India, while Russia dominated landlocked centra…

Get around

A swarm of small buses serves the city. They're sometimes described as marshrutkas or dolmuşes but they have fixed stops and run to a fixed timetable, though its details are known only unto Allah. In 2024 the flat fare is 2000 Som in town and 3000 Som out to Kogon and the railway station. Pay the driver on exit if there isn't a conductor.

The only bus through Old Town is #9, running east-west past the Lyab-i-Hauz complex. Others run to points 1 km out, for instance #60 west side of the complex and #378 east side. Old Town itself is compact and mostly pedestrianised, so walking is the best way to explore.

Taxis often try to rip off tourists. Order through your accommodation, or via an app such as Yandex, to get a reliable ride.

See

thumb | 300px | Kalyan Minaret is the grand plaza and pool at the heart of the Old City, laid out in the 16th century, in legend after a dispute between the khan and the Jewish widow landowner. "Hauz" means a pool, and the city had several for its water supply. They degenerated into cesspools and the Soviets filled them in during the 1920s/30s, but this one survived. Ranged around it are: Kukeldash Madrassah is north side, built in 1568 and in its day the largest in the Islamic world. It's now a hotel. Nadir Devan-begi Madrassah is east side, built in 1622 as a caravansarai, but hurriedly converted into a Madrassah when the local grandee deemed it so. Nadir Devan-begi Khanaka west side was built in 1620. A khanaka was lodging for itinerant Sufi priests. Toqi Sarrafon a short block south of the mosque is a "trading dome" covering a bazaar. Traditionally this one hosted the moneychangers but it now has a mix, and given its position is a bit touristy. The dome is open 24 hours, individual traders follow their own hours. is another trading dome. This one was the bazaar of the cap-makers. is a magnificent religious complex laid out in the 16th century. Kalyan Minaret was built in 1127, the only survivor of an earlier complex wrecked by Genghis Khan. It's baked brick, 45.6 m tall and as late as 1920 was used to hurl criminals to their deaths. Entrance into the minaret is closed for tourists (2025). Kalan Mosque, completed in 1515, is around a large courtyard, with a blue dome …

Do

Football: FC Bukhara were relegated in 2023 and now play soccer in the Pro League, the second tier. Their home ground Buxoro Arena (capacity 22.700) is 2 km south of city centre. The playing season is March-Nov.

Buy

thumb | 300px | Chor Minor Central Bazaar is a large covered market north side of Chashma-Ayub Mausoleum, open daily 07:30-18:00. Carpets are what Bukhara is famous for, but many outlets are over-priced for their quality.

As anywhere in Central Asia, you will need to haggle to get reasonable prices on many items.

Eat

Sometimes local people invite for dinner to their home (i.e. near Kalyan mosque). Consider this authentic experience and leave locals some money after.

Lyab-i Hauz Hotel north side of the main square has a decent restaurant, see Sleep. Rustam & Zukhra south side also serve non-residents, see Sleep.

Sleep

All hotels charge tourist tax on non-citizens, equivalent to US$4 per person per night in 2024. It's usually extra to the quoted price. Alexia Suite is a similar restored merchant house run by Amelia Hotel at Chitbofon 3, between it and Lyab-i Hauz. thumb | 300px | Ark Citadel Grand Bukhara is next to the Wyndham at Ibrokhim Muminov 8, similar architecture, price and quality.

Connect

Bukhara and its approach highways have 4G from all Uzbek carriers. As of Sep 2024, 5G has not reached town.

OVIR, the Office for Visas and Registration, is 2 km south of Old Town centre at Murtazaev 10/3, a block east of Alisher Navoi. It nowadays seldom sees tourists and lacks a phone number or website, as registration is usually central online eg via Emehmon, so coming here is your last resort.

Go next

Khiva is another old town 5 hrs northwest. Samarkand is a must-see 3 hours east. With a taxi or your own wheels you can get there via Shahrisabz, the birth and burial place of Timur. Qarshi is 2 hours southeast on the route towards Tajikistan. Termez is further southeast via Qarshi, on the border with Afghanistan.