Compiègne

Understand

thumb|300px|Typical dunes on the beach at Le Touquet

Destroyed in parts by both world wars, once home to one of Europe's most extensive industrial sectors, and cold by French standards, this is not a major tourist region, at least on paper. Indeed, many who don't know any better view the region as simply an expanse of nothingness to cross on the way to somewhere else. However, those who stop to look closer may find beautiful countryside, fine local foods and beers, and many historical landmarks. War history buffs in particular will be in heaven.

Because of its position between Paris, the Low Countries, and the English Channel, this region has often been the setting for invasions and battles. The two world wars ripped through, leaving a legacy of memorials and mass graves. Notable are the battle-scarred fields of the Somme where French, British, Canadian, Australian, and African soldiers fought the Germans in World War I, and the camp in Compiègne where, during World War II, prisoners were kept while waiting for "transportation to the east".

The current region of Hauts-de-France was created in 2016 after administrative reorganisation grouped Nord-Pas de Calais and Picardy. The latter had been a province dating back to the Middle Ages, and its removal from the map has caused some controversy, with the slogan Touche pas à ma Picardie ! (Hands off my Picardy!) becoming current. The name Hauts-de-France means "heights of France", which refer to the region's northern (high) posi…

Get in

thumb|Thiepval Memorial to the missing of the Somme

See

thumb|250px|Coucou! - gargoyles on Laon cathedral

Picardy is sometimes claimed to be the home of Gothic architecture, and there is certainly no shortage of buildings to choose from: the cathedrals of Notre Dame d'Amiens and Beauvais are two shining examples, as is the basilica in Saint-Quentin. Thiepval - the memorial to the missing of the Somme is monolithic and sombre Vimy - The site of the famous World War I battle, now a Canadian National Memorial, just outside Lens. See England from Cap Gris-Nez (Audinghen) and Cap Blanc-Nez (Escalles). On a clear day you can see the White Cliffs of Dover, and view the ships on the world's busiest shipping channel, from these points. Villers-Bretonneux - The site of the famous battle in World War I, now an Australian National Memorial just outside Amiens. Écoust-Saint-Mein - The site of the battle during World War I, nowadays it contains a few British war cemeteries. It was depicted as a destroyed waypoint in the war film 1917.

Do

Beaches: the best beaches are along the 40-km (25-mile) stretch of coast from Equihen-Plage in the north to Fort Mahon-Plage in the south. The wide sandy beach is broken only where the Canche and Authie rivers meet the sea. The sea goes out a long way at low tide. The main resort on this coast is Le Touquet, but there are several smaller seaside towns or villages that, depending on their size, offer shops, cafes, a seaside promenade, as well as access to the beach. Parc Astérix: a theme park based on the world-famous comic series.

Eat

thumb|250px|Moules frites

The dish of the region has to be moules frites - a steaming bucket of mussels served with mountains of fries - glorious! Often associated with neighbouring Belgium, it's no surprise they're adored in Hauts-de-France too. The most common variant is moules marinières, which sees the mussels steamed in a white wine, shallot and butter sauce, seasoned with parsley, pepper and garlic. This dish has become so popular, it has spread around France and been given dozens of regional makeovers, trading marinière sauce for cream in Normandy, and rich tomatoes and Mediterranean vegetables in the Provence. But the original recipe is best; perfect for sharing, but so moreish you may not want to.

Another classic dish is the ficelle picarde, an oblong savoury pancake stuffed with ham, emmental or gruyère cheese and mushrooms. Treated as comfort food, you will find it on the menu in restaurants and people's homes.

While you're here, summon your courage and hold your nose to try maroilles, a stinky cows' milk cheese produced in the region. It is an acquired taste, but once done so you can truly say you have experienced the north of France. Besides, it has been made since the 10th century, and was a favourite of four kings of France — if it was good enough for them, why not you? In restaurants, it is served in a chicory salad (often labelled something like salade du Ch'ti), or else on toast, and in bakeries look out for it in tarts.

Drink

Unlike most of France, this area is better known for its beer than wine. Luckily the beer is also amazingly cheap compared to certain other places in Europe. A particular local favourite is "Bière de garde," a type of French pale ale. Other good ones to try are 3 Monts and anything from Brasserie de Clerck. A 1L bottle, which looks like a wine bottle, complete with a cork in it, costs only €2 in a Lille supermarket.

Stay safe

Unlike many former industrial regions around the world, the Hauts-de-France are not particularly dangerous, despite being deeply marred by socio-economic issues caused by the fall of the region's industries. Tourists should feel safe by taking the basic precautions; the vast majority of tourist sites are indeed very safe.

Some areas in and around Lille, Lens, and Valenciennes have their share of insecurity, though this tends to be blown out of proportion and outsiders are not affected. With that said, pickpockets and assaults are not unheard of. Beggars are also a common sight in urban areas, though they rarely act aggressively.

Nowadays many people tend to fear going to Calais due to the migrant crisis. The migrants tend to stick to roads near the Channel Tunnel, where there are shantytowns of tents and makeshift shelters, and rarely venture into the city. Travellers using the Channel Tunnel and particularly those driving vehicles with non-French registration plates are advised to check their vehicle thoroughly before entering the Eurotunnel terminal, as migrants have been known to conceal themselves within vehicles that look like they're bound for Britain in an attempt to enter the country illegally.

Go next

thumb|Windmill in Aisne

When touring battlefields or belfries, your next port of call should be Belgium. Start in Ypres, which has both, then branch out in any direction you choose! Ride the length of the Belgian coast - all 67 km - on the Kusttram (coast tram), or else soak up Flemish flair and romance in Bruges or Brussels. Grand Est beckons to the (great) east. Grand old cities such as Reims and Strasbourg rub shoulders with wild spots in the Ardennes and Vosges. With its knack for mixing Gallic and Germanic cultures, this is one place you can eat sauerkraut and drink champagne all in a day! Île de France is just to the south. Paris is of course a must; after all, once you've tasted the Louvre in Lens, it would be silly to miss out the real thing! Venture beyond the capital to hold court in Versailles, hug the trees in Fontainebleau, or even say "bonjour" to Mickey Mouse. Normandy's D-Day beaches offer a sobering accompaniment to the Somme trenches, but this diverse region has so much more to offer, from the chalk Alabaster Coast, to the hedgerows of the Cotentin Peninsula, and inland river valleys of exceptional beauty. Hop across the Dover Straits to South East England. Whether you're on pilgrimage to Canterbury, fancy pottering around the gardens of Kent or Sussex, or just want to catch a Waterloo sunset, be sure to take your passport, as the UK is outside the Schengen Zone. If you're based in France, cross-channel journey times certainly make a day trip feasible. If y…