Derry

Understand

thumb | 300px | Tercentenary Window in Derry Guildhall Accept at the outset that you will occasionally use the wrong name, or rather a right name in the wrong company, and be thunderously corrected. The multiple names of this city reflect its deep layers of history.

Doire is Irish for "oak grove". Glaciers gouged out the fjord of Lough Foyle, and as they retreated the Atlantic lowlands became carpeted in oak forest. Oak was essential so it's a common place-name element: Edenderry, Durrow, Kildare, Adare, and so on. Oak timber was needed for ships, carts, houses, furniture, fences . . . but even more it was needed to make charcoal to fire furnaces for metal-working and glass-blowing. (Coal was too dirty, and coke hadn't been invented.) A monastic settlement grew up at Doire at the head of the lough, while the forests were felled at a rate worthy of a Brazilian cattle tycoon. Meanwhile this northwest region of Ireland remained under Gaelic rule, rebuffing the Vikings, the Normans and the Tudors, until in 1603 Gaelic power was broken by the Nine Years War - almost. But in 1608 a diehard Gaelic noble rebelled, and the city was burned. The rebels were soon hunted down but the government were determined to prevent any repeat. Their astonishing solution was to outsource the place to a London business consortium - how come Nicosia or Sarajevo never thought of this?

Londonderry is the city they ringed with stout walls, soon put to the test. The consortium, "The Honourable The Irish…

Get around

East of the River Foyle is the district of Waterside, predominantly Unionist. The railway station is here and to reach city centre you either take the hourly Bus 2d, or walk across Craigavon Bridge which carries the main road, or take a longer walk via the Peace Bridge downstream.

The main city, bus station and areas of most interest are Cityside, west of the Foyle and mostly nationalist. The city has some steep streets but is compact and walkable; suburbs and industry stretch out beyond.

Taxis wait at the bus and railway stations but you're unlikely to need one. You need your own wheels to explore the countryside, such as Grianan of Aileach prehistoric fort or the Donegal coast of Lough Foyle.

Do

Millennium Forum has the city's largest auditorium, with music, theatre and panto. The Playhouse by St Columb's Cathedral has theatre and music. Cinema: Omniplex is in Quayside Shopping Centre. Institute FC also play soccer at Ryan McBride Stadium. They were relegated in 2020 and now play in the NIFL (Blue Fin Sport) Championship, the game's second tier in Northern Ireland, playing Sep-Apr. thumb | 300px | Only 43 miles to Splodgederry Gaelic games: Derry GAA play Gaelic football and hurling. Their usual home ground is Celtic Park (capacity 18,000) on Lone Moor Rd but home games are also played at other grounds. Golf: nearby courses are Faughan Valley on A2 northeast, City of Derry on A5 south, and Foyle on A2 north along the west river bank.

Buy

thumb | 300px | Craft Village. Foyleside is the large retail mall just south of the bus station, and Richmond Centre is a block northwest. Walled City Market is held in Guildhall Square 11AM–5PM on the first Saturday of the month. Cross-border shopping is sometimes a feature, whenever pound/euro rates or sales tax differences draw shoppers from the Republic.

Drink

thumb | 300px | Trad pubs in Derry The main bar strip is Waterloo Street, a steep street just north of the walls. The Quiet Man Whiskey is blended on Rossdowney Road on Waterside, but construction of their own distillery was abandoned in 2018. Northbound Brewery is on Campsie Industrial Estate next to the airport, no tours. You can buy online but they only deliver within the city area. Otterbank Brewery is on the border at Muff, no tours.

Sleep

thumb | 300px | Griahan of Aileach stone fort

Stay safe

thumb | 300px | Free Derry Corner Derry was scarred by the late 20th century Troubles, and it remains an "interface area" where Republican and Loyalist communities co-exist and occasionally kick off. But it's become a normal city by British and Irish standards, and hasn't seen the need for the kind of "Peace Wall" that still separates neighbourhoods in Belfast. There are down-at-heel districts where you have no reason to go, and aggressive drunks whose politics you need not debate, same as anywhere else. Safeguard your valuables and vehicle, beware traffic, and use your common sense; you'll do fine.

Connect

To call a number in Northern Ireland from the Republic, use area code 048 with no country code. The +44 28 versions given above will work but incur international rates.

As of Aug 2021, Derry has 4G from all UK carriers, which extends some miles into the Republic, especially along Lough Foyle west shore.

It also picks up an Irish 4G signal from Eir and Three, and a mobile signal from Vodafone. Neither side has 5G.

Go next

The County Londonderry coast is scenic: Castlerock has the ruin of an eccentric mansion and "temple". Portstewart is the main beach resort. The Antrim coast east of Portrush has the big attractions of Bushmills Distillery, Giant's Causeway and Carrick-a-Rede Bridge. It's very touristy on summer weekends. County Donegal has a rugged coastline and marks the start of the Wild Atlantic Way: you pick up the signposts for this as you cross the border at Muff.