Harar

Understand

thumb|300px|The walls of the Jugol For centuries, Harar has been a major commercial centre, linked by trade routes between Ethiopia and the Horn of Africa. It is also known in Arabic as the City of Saints.

According to Sir Richard Burton, Harar is the birthplace of the khat plant. The original domesticated coffee plant is also said to have originated in Harar.

In 2007 the six largest ethnic groups reported in Harar were the Amhara (41%), the Oromo (28%), the Harari (12%), the Gurage (3%), the Somali (7%), and the Tigrayans (3%).  Amharic was spoken as a first language by 49% of city inhabitants, Oromo by 24%, Harari by 12%, and Somali by 7%.

Residents of Harar are friendly even by Ethiopian standards. The best thing you can do is at a minimum learn the gender-neutral Amharic word for hello: selam (or selam-new). You will use it a lot. If you are easily recognizable as a foreigner (farangi in Amharic), walking one city block you can expect: 5-10 people greeting you 1-2 people stopping you to ask where you're from 1 person walking with you and making conversation 0.5-1 people offering their services as a tour guide or general fixer (usually in a genial, non-pushy way) 0.5-1 children following you repeating the word "money" ad infinitum Be sure to allocate extra time for these interactions, although in Harar you are unlikely to be going anywhere in a hurry. Harar is small and you are likely to see the same people over and over again, so keep that in mind before blowing someo…

Get in

thumb|Shoa Gate, one of several gates into the Jugol Harar is not the easiest city to reach; budget transportation options involve long hours and/or cramped conditions. For maximum comfort (and cost) from Addis Ababa, fly to Dire Dawa and have a hotel there arrange private car transport to Harar.

Get around

Auto rickshaws ("bajaji" in Ethiopia) are readily available. Flag one down pretty much anywhere. There is no need to take them around the Jugol as it is very walkable.

The main entry into the Jugol is the at its western end. The other gates are: to the north to the east to the southeast to the southwest , a pedestrian-only gate just south of the Harar Gate

See

thumb|Rimbaud's House and Museum The old town is home to ninety-nine mosques and many more shrines, centered on .

Do

Get lost in the Jugol (old city) and wander around brightly colored houses and small vendors. Some local houses can be visited; the guides can show you which ones, or you can try to find them on your own. thumb|right|upright|Faranji. Meat. Give.

Eat

thumb|Fruit vendors Harar is not exactly a culinary wonderland. Restaurants are few, and most are located west of the Jugol. If you find yourself hungry in the Jugol but without a hankering for camel, you can get (spicy) rice or (spicy) pasta at the Mermaid Cafe listed in the Drink section.

Drink

Harar does a lot better in the drinks category. Bunna bets (street coffee stands) dot the Jugol. Outside of the Jugol, Harar has a surprisingly active nightlife.

Sleep

thumb|right|It will be neither gorgeous nor boutique. There are very few quality accommodations. Hot water is unlikely and in fact you'll be lucky to get running water at all. Dire Dawa has a better selection of hotels.

Go next

Dire Dawa, Ethiopia's hot and dusty second-largest city. Jijiga and then onward to Hargeisa, the capital of Somaliland (you'll need a Somaliland visa). To Addis Ababa there are buses leaving daily early morning (04:30 or 05:00). Buy your ticket a few days in advance. There are a few companies and most of the offices are located at Charleville Ave, near Bank of Abyssinia. The ride takes 11 hours (on a good day) and takes you to Meskel Square in Addis.