Khorugh

Understand

Khorugh is the capital town of Gorno Badakhshan Autonomous Oblast (Province). There are a plethora of NGOs working in the area.

The Pamir Eco-Culture Tourism Association (PECTA) has an office at the edge of the city park (37.49N x 71.548E) where you can get a map of the Pamir mountain region, as well as books about the local culture, advice about home-stays, etc.

Nearly everything closes on Sundays, there's not even transport out of town (except perhaps for Murghab and Dushanbe, but get there early); it may be wise to plan a schedule accordingly. A day wandering amongst equally bored watermelon vendors can get quickly become tedious.

Khorugh is the centre of Isma'ilism in Tajikistan, a branch of Shia Islam practised by Pamiris. Consequently, the city receives notable support from the Aga Khan Foundation, as a result of which the standards of medical care and education are high in Khorugh. As of 2024, the Aga Khan Foundation's work is being systematically appropriated by Rahmon's government as part of the broader program of state-fronted discrimination and violence against the country's Pamiri minority. Travellers to the city should bear in mind the region's escalating tensions when in conversation with those who live there.

Get in

From Dushanbe:

Airplane usually flies 1 flight a day, when the weather is good during the summer. Spectacular flight, for about US$85.

Vehicles run constantly to Khorugh. Best to get there is very early in the morning, maybe 06:00-07:00. Vehicles leave from a lot tucked away near the airport. Most people in the capital are unaware of its location. When heading to the airport from the north you go into a dip going under a big road. Just before that there will be a dead end road on your right. Get out of the car and walk through a big gate (lots of people heading that way.) Just repeat "Khorogh" to everyone, and sooner or later someone will know what you're talking about. Price is 300-350 som (June 2019).

Get a good vehicle as a good vehicle usually means a good driver. The trip takes 14-17 hours and this will sometimes be split over 2 days.

Get around

There are a series of parking lots, each with vehicles heading to somewhere in the Pamirs. Vehicles arrive in town around 08:00-09:00 and begin departing 10:00-12:00, whenever they get a full load. The cost to most villages is 1-3 som a seat.

In town you can just walk or catch a local marshrutka for 1 som.

See

Mountains. Just climb one and you will have spectacular views. Julandee (towards Murghab) High altitude, hot spring resort, and wonderful climb behind the springs. The rooms are quite nice and very affordable. US$10-15. Food is available, but ideally you should bring some bread, potatoes and carrots. They will cook, but they have trouble getting the food up there. Very good spot to spend the night before proceeding to Murghab, it’s high enough altitude to see if you get sick. If you are not used to high altitudes, take aspirin to mitigate altitude headaches. Vanj valley is spectacular. If you can get a good vehicle, go to the top. There is the famous "Bear" glacier carving into the valley. The villagers there (in Poy Mazur) will gladly put you up as a guest. Give them a gift, US$10-15, and insist as the villagers are very poor. Garm Chashma (towards Ishkashim). A hot spring and resort-like area. Hop in a marshrutka and get out at a random village. The locals will likely look after you including food. Just bring a bit of money US$10-15 to cover their food costs and to help them out. Make sure you insist: for cultural reasons, they will refuse at first, but it's culturally legitimate for you to insist.

Do

Mountain climbing, hiking, cultural immersion, etc. Beautiful botanical garden. It's out of town towards Roshtkala. Just say "botanical" and people should understand. Some of the local marshrutkas turn around in front of it. Just go up the hill. Closed on Sundays, and Saturdays are iffy. Trekking/travel guide Jusuf who speaks very good English and can arrange any kind of trips in Wakhan and Afghanistan. He also has an (unsigned) Homestay at his village of Khaskhorugh 35 km on the way from Khorog to Iskhashim. Mobile: 935451852

Buy

A hat. They are pretty cool. Make sure they fit, though. Western heads are notoriously large. There are other crafts available at several craft stores downtown and in the Serena Inn's common area. Seasonal fruits are available in the bazaar, as are instant noodles, canned corn, canned peas, hotdogs, bread, etc.

Eat

Deli Dharbar is a great little Indian food place. US$5-7 for a filling and tasty meal. It's between the bazaar and the only stoplight in town, on a side street. Ask locals for MicroFinance Bank, which is across the street. Varka Russian food at reasonable prices. In front of the Red Crescent Compound. Ask locals for "Varka". They all know it. Serena Inn US$12-15 a meal. Pricey, and not all that impressive. Also has a restaurant in the Khorog city park (37.49N x 71.548E) with an indoor dining room as well as a roofed open-wall dining area on the bank of the river (very nice place when the weather is warm).

The bazaar sells osh (pilaf), eggs, and potatoes, or all variety of fried pastries. Head up the place where they sell bread in stacks on the main road.

Drink

Varka is the only bar in town and colourfully nicknamed "fight club" by locals, although not as rough as this suggests. Pamiris generally aren't heavy drinkers.

Be careful with the water as always but the water here is not nearly as bad as in Dushanbe. Most water sources in the villages are contaminated by cattle and people upstream.

Sleep

Several inns and lots of homestays available.

Serena Inn Very nice but pricey at US$100. Has en-suite bathrooms. Is 2.2 km north from the Khorog airport, on the west side of the main road at 37.525N x 71.506E. Built by the Aga Khan Foundation in-order to encourage tourism in the region. Built in typical Badakshani style and situated next to the river, it is luxurious. Telephone: (+992 35222) 3228.

Connect

Some hotels and guesthouses will have WiFi, but not the majority. Go down to the PECTA info centre in Khorog City Park, Wi-Fi is available for 5 som for 3 hours. The staff are friendly and English-speaking.