Kyrenia

Understand

This city was founded by Hellenistic people over 3,000 years ago. They valued Cyprus for its copper and other metals, and mostly got around by sea, but the Romans from the first century AD carved a road right around the island and another inland through the mountains. As the chief port on this coast Kyrenia controlled trade and needed to be defended - the harbour castle you see today was built in 1540 and has been maintained ever since. Kyrenia had a Greek majority population until 1974, when Turkey invaded and most Greeks fled. After the ceasefire there was a population exchange, with Greeks deported and Girne, as it now became, settled by Turks from villages in the south.

The 1990s saw a thawing of the "Cold War" or frozen conflict between Greece, Cyprus and Turkey, and Girne became a popular resort for westerners. It's always called Kyrenia in tourist literature so that's the name used here.

Get around

The town is walkable, but you need a car to explore - there are a dozen rental companies in town if you didn't pick one up at the airport.

Minibuses ply along the coast resort strip but don't reach outlying sights such as St Hilarion Castle.

There's no longer a bicycle hire shop here.

See

thumb | 300px | The wrecked ship carried amphoras Ağa Cafer Pasha Mosque west side of the castle was built in 1590. The interior is fairly plain. St Andrews Church at the southwest corner of the castle is Anglican. Baldoken graveyard next to it has a few old Ottoman tombs. (Ιερός Ναός Αρχαγγέλου Μιχαήλ) is Greek Orthodox. The church and its museum of frescos have been closed since 2018 for re-building. is a good spot for views of the castle. Some sections are in poor repair and work is under way in 2023. Museum of Decorative Arts on Bozoklar Sk by the harbour remains closed in 2023. The Museum of Fine Arts has closed permanently. thumb | 300px | Kyrenia Castle Bitter Lemons 200 m south of the abbey is the cottage where the writer Lawrence Durrell (1912-1990) lived in the 1950s. Shortly after he left he published Justine, the first part of his best known work Alexandria Quartet. The naturalist Gerald Durrell was his younger brother. In 2023 the cottage is derelict and for sale. is a 40 m-tall metal structure visible from the Nicosia highway. The kneeling figure is meant to symbolise the common heritage of the warring factions of Cyprus, descendants all of humble farmers of the same soil, and thus promote reconciliation. Well, worth a go maybe. is a similar Byzantine fortress, reached from its south side by a rugged trail.

Do

thumb | 300px | Bellapais Monastery City Amphitheatre is a modern venue off Mersin Cd near the ferry port. Hiking: there are several trails in the mountain ridge separating Kyrenia from Nicosia. Scuba diving centres near town include North Cyprus British Scuba, Amphora Diving, Nautilus, Scuba Cyprus and Cyprus Underwater Explorers. They all offer training, equipment hire and trips for certified divers. Turtle watching: Loggerhead and Green turtles nest on Alagadi beach 30 km east of town. Females lay eggs in June and July, and hatchlings emerge in Aug and Sept. The beach is closed to the public on summer nights to protect the turtles, but you can join the volunteer rangers on guided walks. Boat trips potter along the coast, often in gulets and serving a meze lunch. Operators based at the harbour include Aphrodite, Derya Deniz, Happy Sea Yacht Tours and Vela Yachting. Paragliding: Highline have tandem paragliding flights, no experience needed. Golf: the nearest course is Korineum Resort, see Sleep. Northern Cyprus Music Festival is held at Bellapais Monastery mid-Sept to early Nov.

Buy

The official currency is the Turkish lira (TL), but most businesses accept euro, British pounds, US dollars and bank cards. Supermarkets: a dozen medium-sized places, typically open daily 07:00-23:00, no dominating big store.

Eat

thumb | 300px | The Queen's Window, St Hilarion Castle Harbour waterfront has 6 Brothers, Set Fish Restaurant, Kyrenia Four Season and Corner Balık. Halil İbrahim Sofrası on Ziya Rızkı Cd scores well for its Turkish food. It's open daily 10:00-02:00. Mantı Sofrası on Göksu Sk a block back from the harbour also scores well. It's open daily 11:00-23:00. Niazis serves great fish and meze. It's on 20 Temmuz Kordonboyu Cd next to Rocks Hotel and open daily 12:00-00:00.

Drink

Cafes and restaurants serve alcohol. Most free-standing bars folded during covid. Sitare Bar a block back from the harbour is open daily 13:00-02:00. Gillham Vineyard (see Sleep) offers tours and tastings. No brewery or distillery in Northern Cyprus so you'll be drinking imported Efes again.

Sleep

thumb | 300px | Archangelos Church

Connect

As of Sept 2023, Kyrenia, the beach strip and approach roads have 4G from KKTC Turkcell and KKTC Telsim. 5G has not reached Northern Cyprus.

Go next

Famagusta has an old centre with Venetian fortifications, amidst much war damage ancient and modern. Nicosia is a fascinating Ottoman city. The ceasefire line runs through it, so its southern part is in Greek-speaking Cyprus. You need your own vehicle to tour the Karpaz peninsula to the east, to be assailed by wild donkeys.