Poipet

Understand

thumb|650px|The border zone with tout zones highlighted

Most travellers consider Poipet "a dump". Poipet hosts a bewildering array of touts, beggars, thieves and dodgy casinos for day tripping Thais, which all contrive to separate money from the unwary. The town has one main street that runs approximately southeast from the roundabout at the immigration offices. North of this street is an average Cambodian town; to the south is a poorer slum area. Both areas have their own markets: clean and airy and dishevelled and stinking, respectively. The latter is likely to be more interesting to an observer. For travellers staying overnight at the border, Poipet represents a cheaper option than the adjacent Thai town, Aranyaprathet, particularly for those heading into Cambodia (see below for avoiding overpriced transport).

While most travellers only pass through, the town can provide the savvy and curious with some fascinating insights into Cambodia's grisly underside. Ever a transport hub, Poipet hosts the western railhead of Cambodia's defunct, but regenerating network which once connected to the functioning Thai network.

Get around

The town is relatively easily covered on foot, for those who wish to explore it. Hotels are within walking distance of customs; though on a hot day, you and your luggage may appreciate a motodop (motorbike taxi), which for 500–1,000 riel will take you to any part of Poipet. One could also be useful for escaping the transport monopoly hot zone of immediately outside immigration and finding a non-scam taxi.

There is also the free bus to the transportation depot, which is perhaps a false friend.

Spending time in Poipet involves being hassled, scammed and frustrated. Though these problems mainly fall on the post-border, bag-carrying weary. Check in, dump the bags and shower. The town then loses much of its hassle.

Buy

In Rongkleu Market, just before Thai immigration, banks sell US dollars at decent rates (USD being the main currency of Cambodia). There are also ATMs dispensing baht. For exchange, the banks don't open until 10:00, and after a weekend or holiday they may be short on US dollars. Do not worry, baht can be exchanged in Cambodia without problem, some large stores even accept baht at rates better than they do Cambodia's own toy currency, the riel.

In Poipet, just about anyone will exchange USD and baht to riel. Look for the traders with glass cabinets full of money, it's their way of advertising. There are banks and ATMs close to the border but Canadia Bank is a little further away. ANZ charges US$5. Canadia ATMs charge a $4 service charge to nearly all ATM cards issued by foreign banking institutions - some bank cards from Europe are the only exception to this policy (2015).

Sleep

While many choose Aranyaprathet to spend the night, Poipet does have a reasonable selection of accommodation. For the budget conscious, it is a cheaper option.

Stay safe

Like most of Southeast Asia, unprovoked violent crime is rare. However, being foreign and out at night could be construed as sufficient provocation. During the day, one can wander through the town and its slums without fear. Being robbed more subtly by scammers and pickpockets is a different matter. Any visitor should explore Poipet with the expectation of spending more than reasonable and also of losing the contents of his pockets. Wear a money belt and stand your ground if you think you are being scammed. Watch out for pickpockets and snatch thieves, including the adorable little children who swarm you and cheer at the border. If you've managed to arrange a taxi away from the monopoly, don't pay up front, and do not let anybody you don't know into the car. The small upside to the travel monopoly is that, once the exorbitant price for the taxi has been paid, they're reliable and the driver will take you anywhere you like once you've reached your destination.

Connect

On the south side of the roundabout, in front of the cluster of radio masts, is a post office. Postcards not available but it's your last chance to get a Cambodian stamp on those Angkor postcards.

Go next

Phnom Penh - 8 to 10 hours by bus.