Katar

Understand

Qatar has the world's third-largest natural-gas reserves, behind only Russia and Iran. Its oil reserves are similar in size to those of the United States of America but will last much longer because its production levels are only one-sixth the rate of that country. Its strategic position has also led to the explosive growth of its flag carrier Qatar Airways, which has turned Doha into one of the world's busiest air hubs. The Qatari government has also been diversifying its economy away from its traditional reliance on oil and natural gas, and has turned the country into one of the main education hubs of the Middle East. By most accounts its citizens are the wealthiest in the world, and the capital Doha and its suburbs sport an endless array of luxury shopping malls with everything the uber-rich could possibly want. Despite this wealth, Qatar is also heavily reliant on a vast underclass of poorly-paid migrant workers who are often horribly mistreated with no legal recourse against employer abuse.

Because its Al Jazeera TV satellite networks broadcast throughout the globe in Arabic and English, Qatar is hugely influential despite its relatively small size.

Get around

Public transport comes in three forms in Qatar: buses, taxis and limousines, all of which are owned by government-owned Mowasalat (Karwa) apart from some private limousine companies. Within the capital, Doha, there's also a metro.

See

For a comparatively small peninsula in the Middle East, there is quite a lot to see in Qatar.

Do

A great activity for tourists is simply to experience the nation's tradition. The traditional Qatari way of life was simple: Bedouin nomads wandering the desert with their camels, and fisherman scouring the ocean floor for pearls to trade. While these two lifestyles are mostly extinct on the peninsula, the government has taken some measures to preserve their traditions for future generations to experience.

Many tour companies run desert expeditions by both four-wheel drive and camel. Some may just be for the day, while others can go for up to a week with trekkers camping overnight in a Bedouin tent. The one day "dune-bashing" tours simply involve speeding over the desert's endless dunes in a Landcruiser.

The pearling tradition has existed as far back as 2000 BCE, when Mesopotamian records speak of shining "fish eyes" imported from the Gulf region. While the industry went bust after the discovery of oil, a large festival is held each year to celebrate the tradition. The Qatar Marine Festival in Doha often includes a huge sea expedition by various dhow boats to find oyster beds on the ocean floor. Other activities at the festival include a musical performance, a seal show, a sandsculptor's expedition and a water, light and sound show.

Many companies offer shipwreck diving for tourists, which can be organised from Doha. Popular diving sites include the man-made Old Club Reef and New Club Reef just out of Messaied, Qapco Reef, the M.O. Shipwreck and the Al Sharque Shipwreck.

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Buy

Qatar can be expensive (an espresso in National Library is QR15), but it can also be very cheap (a good meal in a local restaurant is the same price). Touristy areas tend to be more expensive. Petrol is cheap. Prices are generally lower than in the United Arab Emirates.

Keep in mind that the luxury shopping malls designate Fridays, weekends and public holidays as "family day" in order to prevent the migrant workers, who are mostly male and in Qatar without their families, from mingling with Qataris on their days off. While in theory "family day" is designated for women and families, and single men are supposed to be banned regardless of race or nationality, in practice Qatari and white men are admitted to these venues with no problem, while the restriction is only enforced for non-Qatari and non-white men.

Eat

thumbnail|The national dish machboos consists of rice with meat (on this plate chicken), onions and spices Qatar has seemingly endless options for food, much of it excellent. If you would like European cuisine in a fancy setting, visit a hotel like the Ramada or the Marriott, both of which also offer excellent sushi and the choice of having alcoholic drinks with your meal (the only restaurants in town that can do this are in the major hotels), but at a steep price. Authentic and delicious Indian and Pakistani food is found throughout the city, ranging from family-oriented places to very basic eateries catering to the Indian and Pakistani workers. You may attract some curious stares in the worker eateries, but the management will almost always be extremely welcoming, and the food is very inexpensive.

Middle Eastern cuisine is everywhere as well, and in many forms—kebabs, breads, hummus, the list goes on. It can be purchased on the cheap from a take-out (many of which look quite unimpressive, but serve awesome food) or from a fancier place, like the wonderful Layali (near Chili's in the 'Cholesterol Corner' area) that serves gourmet Lebanese food and has hookahs with flavored tobacco. Refined Persian cuisine is available for reasonable prices in the royally appointed Ras Al-Nasa`a Restaurant on the Corniche (don't miss the cathedral-like rest rooms).

Traditional Qatari food is very hard to find in restaurants, and largely confined to the homes of locals. If you have Qatari fr…

Drink

It's fair to say nobody comes to Qatar for the nightlife. The sale of alcoholic beverages is restricted to restaurants, bars and nightclubs at the major hotels, and they are quite pricey to boot. Driving under the influence and public intoxication carry heavy penalties, including deportation.

It is forbidden to bring alcohol into the country as a tourist; at Hamad International Airport, customs x-ray bags and will confiscate any bottles of alcoholic drinks. They will issue a receipt valid for two weeks to reclaim the alcohol on exit from the country.

The only liquor stores in Qatar are run by the Qatar Distribution Company (QDC), which has two locations, both in Doha. To purchase things there, you must have a license, which requires a residency permit (visitors are not eligible) and a written letter of permission from your employer that also confirms that your basic salary is at least QR3000 per month. The selection is good and is like any alcohol selection of a large supermarket in the West. Prices are reasonable although not cheap.

As far as non-alcoholic drinks go, be sure to hit some of the Indian and Middle Eastern restaurants and juice stalls. They whip up some tasty and exotic fruit juice combinations that really hit the spot.

The national drink of Qatar is the Karak Tea. It is available at many roadside cafeterias and restaurants. The biggest and most famous place to offer the Karak Tea is Tea Time, which has branches all over Qatar. Ask your taxi driver for the n…

Sleep

thumbnail|Sunset at Shamal beach A cheap hotel starts at about QAR130. A mid-range hotel is about QAR300.

Budget accommodation does not seem to exist in Doha. The only hostel is very hard to find; even the taxi drivers at the airport may have to talk it over! It costs QR100 per night if you don't have YHA membership, QR90 if you do.

Stay safe

thumbnail|Nighttime traffic in DohaThe emergency phone number for police, ambulance or fire department is 999.

Qatar is generally a very safe country for tourists, with crime rates among the lowest in the world.

Western women travelling on their own sometimes experience staring from local men, along with other unwanted curiosity. However, this is more of an annoyance than a threat, and Qatari police deal harshly with any complaint of harassment. If you want to fit in better with the locals and attract less stares, a long, black cloak and headscarf worn by local women called the abaya can be purchased at a variety of places in Doha.

Travelling on the roads is probably the largest danger to your wellbeing. Although they are safer than most other Asian and Middle Eastern drivers, Qataris often ignore road rules and are intolerant of pedestrians attempting to cross the road. Be safe when walking near or over major highways.

Dust storms and sandstorms are another major issue, being common throughout the dry summer. These natural events can shroud the country in darkness and cause severe respiratory issues. If a sandstorm is approaching, immediately seek shelter or wear a facemask.

Qatar is not a gay-friendly country, and homosexuality is theoretically punishable by the death penalty (though rarely enforced). Gay visitors are advised to be discreet about their sexual orientation and avoid public displays of affection.

Although in other countries, you might record an interacti…

Stay healthy

The quality of Qatari hospitals is generally on par with Western standards. Qatari citizens are provided with free healthcare under the government's national health insurance scheme, but this is not available to foreigners. Foreign residents are generally required to purchase private health insurance as part of their visa conditions.

Drink lots of water and take proper precautions for the sun, including clothing that covers your skin and sunscreen.

Tap water is potable, but most residents choose to drink bottled water just in case.