Damascus

Understand

thumb|350px|The Eastern Gate at the end of the Via Recta Established between 10,000 to 8,000 BCE, Damascus is credited with being one of, if not the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world. The world heritage listed old-walled city, in particular, feels very ancient and largely consists of a maze of narrow alleys, punctuated by enigmatic doors that lead into pleasing, verdant courtyards and blank-faced houses. The old city still has an authentic medieval feel to it, although this was quickly vanishing due to the increasing tourist traffic as the city continued to be highlighted as an attraction. Life, however, goes on in the old-walled city, which is still the religious and social center of the city.

Due to the Syrian Civil War which began in 2011, many services in the city, including transportation, accommodation and consular services, have been severely disrupted. Power interruptions are frequent, the Syrian pound currency has been subject to hyperinflation (to the point where prices listed here are meaningless) and the war is not far from mind even during the brief moments when life goes on normally. Many have left the country, been drafted into military service or killed in action. On December 8, 2024, rebel groups entered Damascus and captured it, ending the Assad regime. The city is home to about 2.5 million people (2022), and the metropolitan area to 5 million.

Large parts of the article describes the situation before the war. While the security situation is …

Get around

At rush hours (10:00-16:00), the best way of transport is on foot. Smoking is absolutely forbidden on all public transport.

See

thumb|300px|The Souq al-Hamidiyya. thumb|The Temple of Jupiter.

The Souq al-Hamidiyya, a broad street packed with tiny shops, is entered through columns from a Roman temple built on a site that had been occupied by an even older temple. The souqs themselves smell of cumin and other distinctive spices and you can find passages dedicated to everything from leather and copper goods to inlaid boxes and silk scarves.

At the end of Souq al-Hamidiyya stands the great Umayyad Mosque; this building with three minarets is an architectural wonder. It was an Assyrian temple, then a Roman temple to Jupiter, a church when Rome converted to Christianity, then a mosque and a church together, and finally a mosque until now. All the symbols are still pretty much there and some Christian drawings can still be very clearly seen on the walls inside. The mosque contains the grave of John the Baptist (prophet Yahya to Muslims) inside the main lounge. Muslims also believe that this is the site where Jesus will descent back to Earth on his Second Coming. Women are asked to be to cover their hair, arms and legs. Abayas (full-body covers) are provided with the entrance ticket. It is one of the most sacred sites of Islam, and it welcomes foreign tourists, who are allowed to walk around the prayer area.

At the other end of Souq al-Hamidiyya is a fort-like section of the extant city wall that is the Citadel (but make sure to visit Aleppo's Citadel for a truly amazing experience).

Nearby, you can visit…

Do

View the city from Mount Qasioun is a must-do activity in Damascus as it offers a panoramic view. The peak is accessible at any time, although the view is perhaps most spectacular at night when the whole city is lit up and the minarets of mosques are bathed in green light. The Umayyad Mosque in the old town is particularly impressive when viewed from the mountain. There is a wide range of food and refreshment available on the peak from stalls to fancy restaurants that serve good local cuisine and alcohol. Check the price before you get too comfortable though as it is a well-known scam for taxi drivers to take you to their 'favorite' cafe, where you'll end up paying a fortune for a cup of tea. Visit a restaurant in old Damascus. There are many restaurants in the old quarter each with their own unique character, but perhaps the most famous (and touristy) is "Beit Jabri", although "Al-Khawali" is considered by many to be the best dining experience in the old city. Another restaurant in the old city, Narcissus Palace, located close to Maktab Anbar, would offer an enlightening experience. Every night, a singer and band play old Arabic music and create an amazing atmosphere in the restaurant. A good idea, when considering these restaurants, is to go for breakfast, and then go sightseeing. The breakfast is very cheap. Relax at a Hooka cafe "Narjelah" Hooka cafes are popular in Damascus and are easy to find. When visiting the old city, you'll get a more cultural or traditional experi…

Buy

As of Jan 2026, credit and debit cards are being re-introduced in Syria. Cash remains the most reliable form of payment. Travelers should bring enough cash with them to last the duration of their trip, to then exchange once in Syria. US dollars are the most easily convertible foreign currency, but euros and some other currencies can be exchanged.

Damascus offers some of the best shopping in the Middle East. Prices are cheap, and since very few stores depend on tourists for their income, most will leave you alone to browse until you are ready to buy. Small stores are found throughout the old city, although the Souq al-Hamidiyya, located along the Roman straight street, offers the highest density of shops. The souq is a fantastic experience, but be prepared for the crowds.

Drink

The coffee houses of Old Damascus were something to experience. Hours could dissolve over a cup of shay (tea) or ahwa (coffee) among the smoke of a nargileh (water pipe) . An-Naufara (which means 'The Fountain') was a wonderful place to do this, just east of the Umayyad Mosque. There was even a Hakawati (a traditional story teller) present at 19:00 most nights.

If you were craving a European coffee, you could have headed for Abu Rommeneh street and looked for the Bennetton clothing store. There were a number of fancy cafés in the area, including the Middle Eastern chain Inhouse Coffee, which is similar to Starbucks in its prices and atmosphere. Free Wi-Fi was offered at each location throughout the city.

Apart from that, Damascus has a lively nightlife scene, with numerous bars and nightclubs offering drinks and dancing. While prostitution is commonplace in many venues, there are decent places worth visiting, particularly around the Bab Sharqi area, such as La Serai and La Vida Loca.

Many establishments have closed because of the war; as of mid-2016 there have been reports of businesses gradually returning to the Old City or Old Quarter of Damascus.

Old Town establishments which have reopened include:

Sleep

left|thumb|300px|Merjeh Square

Souq-Al-Saroujah is where you find the cluster of backpacker hotels. Martyr's Square or "Merjeh" in Arabic is the other place worth considering if you're on a tight budget, though many of the places double as brothels. However, at least the hotels below can be recommended. Women alone should avoid hotels at Merjeh Square, because it's the red light district of Damascus.

Most hotels in Damascus claiming to be 5 stars are actually closer to what Western travellers know as 2 stars. The Syrian government runs its own accreditation agency that gives highly suspect inflated ratings to hotels owned by Syrian chains and those that have paid "baksheesh" (bribes) to the authorities. Due to the American sanctions of Syria, credit cards linked to US banks will not be accepted (this is pretty much every credit card in the world).

Stay safe

See the Syria article for information on the security situation.

In rural and modern areas of Damascus, people have been known to be perfectly healthy, but to imitate beggars in order to get money. Often, they will attempt to con you by giving more money and have many tricks to do so. Exercise caution.

Also, for your safety, do not take advice or recommendations, especially about accommodation, doctors and dentists, from taxi drivers.

Damascus itself has not been an active war zone for several years now. Nonetheless, the political by-products of the war continue to negatively impact travellers.

Travelling with a guide at all times is strongly recommended, if only to make such interactions less stressful.

Connect

Most hotels can arrange international phone calls, but prices are very expensive. Most internet cafes are set up for VOIP, and offer a much cheaper alternative, although the price does reflect the quality of the connection.

Internet access is widely available, although the Syrian government censors traffic, which can cause some interesting quirks in connectivity.