Huambo

Understand

thumb|320px|The Governor's Palace

Huambo sits in the center of the traditional area of the Ovimbundu people (who speak Umbundu). During previous centuries the Ovimbundu were organized into several independent kingdoms. The Portuguese came into contact with these kingdoms in the 1500s, and the Ovimbundu soon proved themselves to be capable traders, creating trade networks from the Portuguese port town of Benguela all the way into modern-day Democratic Republic of Congo (Katanga province) and Zambia. At the beginning of the 1900s, the Portuguese turned from economic to military interests, and soon conquered the Central Highlands. It was in the immediate aftermath of this conquest that Huambo city was built.

Portuguese General Norton de Matos resided at the Quibala fortress while he laid plans for the new city of Huambo, established in 1912. The current layout of the city bears the marks of his Portuguese-style organization, with a monumental rotunda surrounded by government edifices, a beautiful central garden areas, and a commercial division with a clear grid street plan. These areas were devastated during the civil war, but the current government has rehabilitated the area very quickly, giving it an Angolan flair on top of the Portuguese design.

The old Portuguese center of the city is now surrounded by Angolan "bairros" which swelled during the war years with refugees from the surrounding countryside. The bairros are crowded and disorganized, and most roads are still pack…

Get around

The city center is small enough to be explored by foot.

Otherwise, the easiest way to get around Huambo is on motorcycle taxis. They wait at every corner, or you can flag one down as he drives by. Tell the driver where you want to go, and he'll tell you a price. Prices should be standard depending on the distance (usually 100, 200, or 300 kwanzas), but you, as a visitor, won't know what's fair. So try to bargain your way as low as they'll go, then you know you're getting a fair(er) price.

Be aware that motorcycle drivers are not necessarily safe. Many accidents occur. Ensure that the motorcycle you choose looks in decently good repair and has two good quality helmets. Don't climb on a motorcycle taxi without wearing a helmet.

Blue and white taxi vans are another option, useful if you need to cross from one side of the city to another. They run predetermined routes, and can sometimes be slow because they wait for the taxi to fill up. Listen for a taxi calling your destination. It should cost 100 kwanzas to get to that destination. You can get off earlier on the route, but you'll still pay 100 kwanzas.

Because of the dangers inherent in all forms of public transportation in Angola, it may be better to just plan to walk most of the places you're going. The center of the city is not large, and the climate is usually pleasant (except when it's raining). A 30-minute stroll will get you from the Cidade Alta (uptown) to the Cidade Baixa (downtown).

If driving, be very careful of…

See

thumb|300px|Former home of UNITA rebel leader Jonas Savimbi

Eat

If you're ready for a drink or a bite to eat, the immediate environs of the Jardim da Cultura provide several options. Otherwise, head eastward. First, you'll encounter several metals statues from the Portuguese era.