Iraq

Understand

thumb|Ur

A country with a federal democracy, Iraq has a growing population of 40 million. As a member of the Arab League, it has experienced modern economic and military growth and historic instability through wars. Iraq is the home of the world's first civilizations, with a development of writing, agriculture and urbanity.

Get around

Due to the autonomous nature of Iraqi Kurdistan, travelling between Iraqi Kurdistan and the rest of Iraq will involve border inspections as if you were travelling internationally. In Kurdistan, public transport is rare although regular buses do link Zakho and Dohuk and cost about USD2. There are plans of a public bus network in Erbil, which is estimated to be launched after 2020. From Dohuk, shared taxis leave all day for Erbil and other cities. The road from Dohuk to Erbil goes south near Mosul, but does not leave Kurdish territory and is thus safe, although perhaps too close for comfort. Shared taxis might be the safest way to travel in Iraqi Kurdistan, as the drivers are not interested in leaving the province either. Shared taxis also may be your only method of traveling around outside Iraqi Kurdistan. If you are a foreigner, expect to be stopped at most checkpoints. Be ready to tip or pay more than the agreed upon amount for the inconvenience. The checkpoints really start to ramp up north of Tikrit. The road from Mosul to Kirkuk passes by Iraqi Kurdistan. Have your Iraqi visa ready.

See

thumb|Main courtyard of the Al-Kādhimiya Mosque in Baghdad thumb|The ancient ruins of Babylon

Since 1979, disastrous government and devastating wars have taken a toll on Iraq's travel industry. After the fall of the Saddam Hussein government, which was virulently hostile to Shia Islam, religious pilgrims, mostly from the Middle East, Iran, and Central Asia, have returned in large numbers to the holy sites of southern Iraq, especially to the spiritual home of Shia Islam in Karbala. Religious pilgrimage remains quite unsafe, but there is a greater degree of safety in numbers, and in being familiar with the Arab region. And of course, pilgrimage is a more urgent reason for travel than sightseeing!

One can only hope that this great and ancient region soon sees increased security and stability, for it makes a fascinating travel destination for anyone interested in history, be it in ancient history 4,000 years old, medieval Islamic and later Ottoman history, or the modern history of the early 21st century. The aforementioned conflicts and misgovernment have not been kind to Iraq's ruins, especially in terms of the massive rebuilding done on ancient Babylon by the Hussein government and later negligence by foreign military presence. But the pull of such ancient cities as the Babylonian capital Babylon; the ancient city of Ur, of mankind's first great civilizations, Sumeria; major Parthian cities at magnificent Hatra and the capital Ctesiphon; and the Assyrian capital of Ashur, rem…

Eat

thumb|Tepsi Baytinijan

Iraqi cuisine is centred on grilled meats, slow-cooked stews, rice, and fresh bread. Meals are social events — portions are generous, tea follows every dish, and refusing food is considered impolite. Street food is abundant and inexpensive throughout the country, while sit-down restaurants range from simple local grills to upmarket riverside establishments in Baghdad.

Masgouf is considered the national dish of Iraq. It is an open-cut carp (a freshwater fish) roasted for hours after being marinated with olive oil, salt, curcuma and tamarind while keeping the skin on. Traditional garnishes include lime, chopped onions, and tomatoes. It is often served with flatbread. The best masgouf is found along the Tigris in Baghdad, particularly on Abu Nawas Street, where restaurants prepare the fish over open wood fires.

Tepsi Baytinijan is another very popular dish: a baked casserole typically consisting of meatballs, aubergine, tomatoes, garlic, onions, and potatoes.

Quzi (or ghoozi) is slow-roasted lamb served over fragrant rice with almonds and raisins. It is the centrepiece of celebrations, weddings, and large family gatherings throughout Iraq.

Kubba (كبة) are fried or boiled bulgur wheat shells stuffed with spiced minced meat. Varieties differ by region — Mosul is known for its kubba mosuliya, while Baghdad's version is typically deep-fried and served with lime.

Tashreeb is a hearty stew poured over torn pieces of flatbread, allowing the bread to soak up…

Drink

The sale and importation of alcohol is prohibited in Iraq with a law passed in 2016 by the Iraqi parliament.

Sleep

Sleep in the hot summer months can be difficult. Sleeping outside and near flowing water is the most comfortable setting one can find outside of air conditioning.

In Iraqi Kurdistan, there are plenty of hotels and although they are hard to find in any travel guide, anyone on the street will direct you to a nearby place. There's no shortage in Zakho, Dohuk or Erbil. Rates run about USD15–25 per night for a single room with bathroom.

Hotels in Baghdad can be found on several popular booking sites. For a single room with a private bathroom, rates start at around 50 USD per night in winter and 70 USD per night in summer. Baghdad also boasts some more luxurious options like the five star Babylon Rotana hotel which costs 240-280 USD per night, depending on the season, for a single room.

Non-married couples should check the hotel's policy on sharing rooms prior to booking. Due to local cultural norms, some hotels may ask for proof of marriage before allowing couples to share a room.

Stay safe

Although things are gradually getting better, the political and security situation remain very unstable. If you decide to go, strongly consider hiring a local guide. Many highways have road blocks set up by not only the Iraqi government, but also by various local militias, who will inspect your documents and question your purpose of visit.

Stay healthy

It is not safe for short term visitors to drink the water anywhere in Iraq. It is best to always drink bottled water. It will usually be sold at vendors and large stores, and will be easy to find. Most Iraqi water companies pump their water directly from the Tigris or Euphrates rivers, treat it with ozone, and then filter it into bottles. Those with sensitive systems should not drink it. Many street vendors will offer drinks such as water with a lemon twist, which should be presumed unsafe for foreign visitors.

Those with experience in Iraq should use their discretion and past experience when purchasing drinks.

Drinking the local tea (chai) can be safe for some people since it is brought to a boil before serving, but when in doubt, insist that bottled water be used. Many kinds of water-borne disease, pollution, and infectious agents are not affected by boiling of water, and are still present in the water after boiling.

As a walk past an Iraqi butcher shop will demonstrate, food preparation standards are not the same as in Western countries, and consumption of local food can make a visitor ill. Try to bring your own. As tap water is generally not potable, you should especially avoid uncooked foods.

Should you find your body in the uncomfortable position of rejecting food and water due to something you shouldn't have drunk, immediately find someone who speaks Arabic and send them to a local pharmacist and request a product known locally as "InterStop" (similar to co-phenotr…

Respect

The Iraqis in general are humble, hospitable and down-to earth.