Lindi

Understand

thumb|Scene in Lindi, Tanzania (2) Lindi is a small town situated approximately 450 km south of Dar es Salaam on the coast of the Indian Ocean. Located at the mouth of the Lukuledi River, Lindi has a small harbour and has a long history as a trading centre for sisal, ivory and valuable wood. Today, this sleepy beachside town is the district capital of the Lindi region with a population of approximately 40,000 people.

During colonial German rule, when Tanzania was known as German East Africa, Lindi was selected as the administrative headquarters of the huge Southern Province, and echoes of that time can still be seen in Lindi today.

Get in

Lindi has one bus station and all buses arrive and depart from there. In general, buses in Tanzania leave very early in the morning, so it always pays to organise your onward ticket the day before departure.

See

Lindi has a colonial heritage, which is evident from the many crumbling colonial-era buildings dotted around the town. An old German Boma stands abandoned by the waterfront, and there are several other 19th century buildings lining Lindi's streets. Lindi also has several large mosques, one of which has a beautifully decorated entrance way, and a Hindu temple. A stroll around town will allow you to get a sense of what Lindi used to be: an old trading centre with a strong seafaring culture, and then later on an important administrative post under colonial rule.

Do

thumb|Mtema beach The long white beaches are the main attraction in Lindi. There are several beaches located only a few kilometres out of the town, and the Lindi Beach. On the Lindi Beach, you can enjoy the sight of locals fishing with methods that haven't changed for centuries. In the early morning groups of young men work together to cast and draw in large nets for the prawn catch, while small dhows go out into the bay and beyond for tuna, snapper and other pelagic fish. The dhows are usually hand carved from single pieces of wood, and are wind and oar powered.

Mtema Beach is about 5 km is the best location nearby for swimming. Tanzanians normally don't swim at all, so a group of wazungus (foreigners) is likely to attract some attention! Women and men should dress conservatively on the beach and while in the water.

Buy

Lindi has a small market located next to the central roundabout in between Jamhuri Street and the main B2 street. For those who are self-catering, it's a great place to pick up fresh fruit and vegetables, as well as staples like ugali and rice, spices and dried locally caught fish. Several small supermarkets selling toiletries, alcohol, and grocery items can be found on Jamhuri Street and on the main road. As for handicrafts, one of Lindi's charms is that it is so far free from the army of souvenir hawkers who welcome you in many Tanzanian cities. Enjoy the peaceful atmosphere as you wander the streets of this unspoiled town.

Eat

Lindi is not a place to look for a wide variety of international cuisine, however it is a great opportunity to sample the food that Tanzanians eat everyday as staples. Several restaurants operate in the city centre, and some more cosmopolitan eateries are starting to spring up. Fishermen sell freshly caught fish and seafood every morning on the beach, and a wide range of tropical fruit can be bought at every street corner.

Apart from established restaurants, Lindi also has a large number of women who operate out of small shacks by the side of the road. They sell breakfast items such as mandazi and chapatis, as well as more substantial lunch offerings like meat stews and cooked vegetables served with rice or ugali. The usual rule applies: if it's busy, go for it! This is the cheapest way to eat authentic Tanzanian food, and while you may get a few stares, the locals are usually very friendly and helpful.

Drink

You should stick to bottled water during your stay in Lindi, as most of the tap water comes from underground wells that are often contaminated. You can buy 0.5 and 1.5 litre bottles of water from the many small supermarkets in Lindi, and the gas stations also sell large jerrycans of water.

As for the hard stuff, Lindi is a predominantly Muslim town so there isn't a huge choice of bars and cafes. However, several beachside bars can be found where you can enjoy a beer in the evening, and there are a few restaurants that serve hot and cold drinks throughout the day. A range of local and imported beer can be found, and a few shops on Jamhuri Street and the B2 sell wine, spirits and beer that you can enjoy back at your guesthouse.

Sleep

Lindi has a large number of guesthouses scattered throughout the town centre and outskirts.

Connect

Lindi has good phone and mobile internet coverage through the three main telecom providers in Tanzania, Airtel, Vodacom and Tigo. For mobile internet coverage, Vodacom occasionally approaches 3G speed, and Airtel and Tigo also offer a reasonable connection. Their offices can all be found next to the bus station, and a credit top-up can be bought at any of the small shops that line every street.

The Place Internet Cafe is located just off the main street near the central roundabout.

Go next

The Litipo Forest Reserve is a small area of forest located near Rutamba village, about 40 km out of Lindi. It's a beautiful peaceful area of woodland with several lakes and a wide variety of birdlife, and is one of the few areas remaining where visitors can see the original closed canopy rainforest that used to cover much of southern Tanzania. Buses leave in the morning from Lindi and generally take around 3 hours to arrive, longer in the rainy season. Go to the bus station in Lindi the day before to arrange a ticket. Hitching rides on transport trucks is also an option, however these will generally take much longer to arrive than buses. There are several basic accommodation options in Rutamba, but don't expect the Ritz!