Ölgii

Understand

thumb|300px|right|View from Bugan Tou Mountain overlooking Ölgii

Nestled in the Altai mountains in western Mongolia, this small city was established in the 1840s by Kazakhs fleeing the expanding Russian Empire. Though what is now Bayan-Ölgii was likely a wintering grounds for nomadic Kazakh herders living in what is now Xinjiang Province of China, more Kazakhs came after Stalin started suppressing traditional cultures and religion and during the Chinese Civil War in the 1930s. During this time Ölgii became a staging point for a Soviet-supported rebellion against the Nationalists in the western Muslim region of China. After the Chinese Communists won, Kazakh rebels and religious leaders were purged, about 500 arrested and 100 murdered in Bayan-Ölgii alone. The region was largely ignored since then, allowing the Kazakhs' unique culture based on nomadic herding, vibrant art and music, and large, close families to flouriah. Nowhere else on earth has the traditional practice of hunting with eagles been so well preserved, with 250 active Kazakh eagle hunters in this small remote province.

Get in

thumb|Terminal at Olgii Airport Routes to enter include coming by plane to the Ölgii Airport, usually from either Ulaanbaatar in Mongolia or from Kazakhstan; routes can also include biking in, driving in by bus (from Ulaanbaatar or the Altai region of Russia), or by private taxi/transit.

Get around

thumb|375px|City center map

Taxis cost 700 ₮ per km.

Ölgii is not a large town so you should be able to get most places by walking, 30-40 minutes at the most. There are no addresses. Business cards usually provide directions from a nearby landmark. For example, an office might be "2nd floor of Altai Cashmere Building next to Post Office." Unofficial taxis are cheap and can be found alongside major roads or in/near the city square. You can signal for a taxi by sticking your hand out waste high and flicking your wrist. As of 2013 it cost 700-2100 ₮, depending where you're going, more if you don't speak Kazakh. Most drivers will speak Kazakh, but can speak Mongolian.

By going to the bazaar you can also hire a shared taxi which is going further away into nearby towns. The bazaar is closed on Mondays. Most taxis leave around 15:00 or 16:00. The Tourist Visitor Center can help arrange jeeps for getting out into the countryside and permits for various parks. Shared jeeps typically have at least 10 and up to 15 passengers for a 5-seat jeep.

See

thumb|275px|The Central Mosque Ölgii is the capital of the Kazakh homeland of Mongolia. It has a unique traditional Kazakh culture and is the cultural, religious, and economic center of the region. thumb|The Kazakh National Theater thumb|Petroglyph at Tsagaan Salaa thumb|Statue of war hero, Akie It's also worth experiencing Kazakh hospitality in a ger, or white felt round-house. Many people set up gers in their yards in the summer, but you can also go outside of town to see gers in their "natural setting."

Do

Most people come to see the surrounding areas and don't spend a lot of time in Ölgii itself. It really helps to know someone local who can introduce you to other people! Learning at least a few words of Kazakh will also be helpful and people will really appreciate it.thumb|Kazakh Altai Eagle Festival in Bayan-Ölgii

Buy

thumb|Hand-sewn wall hanging Bayan-Ölgii has developed a reputation around Mongolia and Kazakhstan for its unique craft production that is not found anywhere else. Local artisans export brightly colored embroideries with elaborate curving designs. The Kazakh designs have been used for handbags, wallets, computer bags, pillow cases, place-mats, and a wide range of products. Before the end of communism, the designs were used primarily for wall hangings on gers, traditional clothing, and the takiyat (Muslim prayer cap). Tourists visiting in the 1990s started buying wall hangings (tuskies), some 40 or 50 years old, and created a demand for new wall hangings and other items. Local artisans also make fox fur hats, dombras (traditional instruments), chee (painted straw panels, and many other crafts that are used everyday by locals.

Like much of Mongolia, the number and quality of shops have grown exponentially. There used to be a few small general stores selling candy, flour, and cheap vodka. Today there are several supermarkets, cashmere shops, specialty stores for computers, home appliances, and fashionable clothing. The availability of particular items can still be inconsistent, but is still good considering the isolation.

Most prices are in Mongolian Togrogs (₮), though tour guides and tourist activities will be priced in US dollars.

Eat

The dining choices in Ölgii are limited, but generally more tasty than Mongolian food elsewhere in the country. Most of the food here is Kazakh or Mongolian, though Turkish, Uighur, and international options are available. The biggest difference between Kazakh and Mongolian is that Kazakh meals have Halal meat (without blood) and more spices. Kazakh food is delicious and usually slow cooked over several hours with lots of meat, potatoes, noodles, and spices. The best dishes are bisbarmak ("5 fingers", slow-boiled mutton), sirne (grilled mutton), and kaz (smoked fatty horse sausage).

Mongolians and Kazakhs rarely eat meals without meat. Vegetarians should stick to the large restaurants and tourist camps or patronize the bazaar and some supermarkets, which have decent selection of fruits and vegetables. There is a regular supply of bananas, apples, pineapples, carrots, bell peppers, cabbage, oranges, and watermelon throughout the summer and fall. A much more limited selection is available during the winter due to the nearby Chinese border closing.

All restaurants, other than those at tourist ger camps are located in the city center near the apartment blocks and the Bazaar.

Drink

Kazakhs, like Mongolians, drink milky tea, though Kazakhs use less salt and more tea. Shops carry Coke, Fanta, juices, instant coffee, and alcoholic drinks, usually at room temperature. A few stores sell wine, imported beer, and whiskey (at very high prices). Restaurants and bars usually serve beer and coke cold.

Friday is a dry day with no alcohol legally sold, out of respect for the Muslim majority. Bars and nightclubs are closed on Friday, though some restaurants and shops will still sell to foreigners. You should not openly carry alcohol on this day or be visibly drunk. Public drunkenness on any day is not common like in other parts of Mongolia, and could result in a visit by the police.

There are about a dozen bars and 3 or 4 nightclubs in the city. Bars typically include karaoke and VIP rooms with small selection of beers and hard liquors.

Kumiz is similar to Airag and is made from fermented mare's milk. Kazakhs drink it during the summer until it runs out in late winter. It has a fizzy sour taste and a small alcohol content. Several restaurants serve it, and there is one Kumizhana, or 'kumiz place.'

Sleep

There are several hotels and ger camps in Ölgii. Hotels are open year round and cater to locals most of the year, while ger camps are only open during the main tourist season from May to October.

Go next

Nearby destinations include several-day excursions into other areas of Bayan-Ölgii province to see the beautiful mountain scenery, Kazakh herders, and ancient petroglyphs. There are around 60 deer stones, over 1,000 Turkic Stone Men and a million petroglyphs (pictures carved into stone) in the surrounding region. There are around 250 Kazakh eagle hunters living outside of the city that hunt for prized Corsac foxes with captured golden eagles released from horseback. These hunters are often followed by documentary film crews during the winter months.