Rishikesh

Understand

thumb|The Ganges flowing through Rishikesh Along with nearby Dehradun and Haridwar, Rishikesh is a useful gateway to the Uttarakhand Himalayas. The Northern Char Dham Yatra (Four Shrines Sacred Journey) ideally begins from Rishikesh.

The nearby Shivpuri, 12 km away, is the centre for many adventure sports, not to be confused with its namesake Shivpuri.

Get around

The town's centre, where the bus and train stations are, is of little interest to most travellers.

Northeast are three bridges spanning the Ganges, south to north: , and .

The main hubs of activity and interest are on the eastern bank of the Ganges (the center of multiple ashrams) and about 5 km northeast of Rishikesh (the backpacker hotspot with dirt-cheap accommodation).

See

thumb|300px|Trayambakeshwar Temple, Laxman Jhula

200px|thumb|right|Patna Waterfalls

Buy

As with most holy cities come tourist destinations there's a plethora of religious paraphernalia, cheap clothing aimed at foreigners, incense, bronze Shiva statues, etc. Unlike many other similar towns in India prices here are usually reasonable and you won't have to haggle hard for a good price.

Eat

Non-vegetarian food has been banned in the city for many years. North and south Indian food is widely available, and there's no shortage of multi-cuisine backpacker cafes, especially in Laxman Jhula. What excites many foreigners are the delicious Ayurvedic and health food restaurants, perfect for an after-yoga meal. Many of the main lanes are lined with wooden push carts selling in-season fruit, veggies, popcorn, nuts, warm cookies and lots else, and you'll usually be quoted a fair price. The papayas here are particularly delicious. Try the famous Chotiwali Special/Janata or Delux Thali. It used to be an unlimited affair but now due to practical constraints the quantity is limited and extra helpings are charged. There are several eateries offering jalebis, imartis, samosas, and other Indian snacks. If you haven't heard of these before, you should definitely try them.

Chotiwala in Swarg Ashram claims to be the original, and serves up great Indian food including 5 different thalis. Meals starts from ₹100. Ganga Ayurvedic Food Place, (out beyond most of the ashrams, just past VED Niketan Ashram). Delicious food, lovingly prepared. One of the cleaner kitchens around; don't be afraid of the good salads. Also great for breakfast. Little Italy, Swarg Ashram, (in the Green Hotel). Good pasta, pizza, etc. Mains from ₹30. Mukti's Health Food, (a few hundred metres west of Shivanand Jhula bridge, overlooking the taxi stand/parking lot). A tiny place in a strange location, but very popu…

Drink

Sitting around in dhabas and cafes is nearly mandatory here. In addition to the old standards like masala chai and lassis you can find a nice range of Ayurvedic teas. Some restaurants make up their own tonics to treat anything that may be ailing you.

There are two Italian-style/Seattle-style cafés focusing on coffee.

Alcohol is banned and inappropriate, as Rishikesh is a holy city, although you can buy beer (8% alc) with your meal in one of the finer hotels.

Tripti Restaurant is on main the Badrinath highway and is a good place to visit. It has a beautiful view and an airy restaurant area to sit and relax. The food is healthy and fresh and tasty. It is a common place for foreigners and visitors to have a calm and quite break. Sitting on the terrace is another thing that you don't want to miss at "Tripti"

Sleep

Rishikesh is filled almost entirely with budget hotels, with a few mid-range thrown in for good measure. Tapovan is popular with backpackers and has the cheapest accommodation, while Swargashram is where the majority of the ashrams are, and is a nice alternative. There is also a handful of accommodation options available in High Bank.

It's wise to book ahead in the peak tourist season, and during the Kumbh Mela in neighboring Haridwar.

Stay safe

A holy city it may be, but Rishikesh draws more than its fair share of criminals and con men. Don't walk around alone at night and beware of the motives of sadhus offering one-on-one tutoring. There is also a gem stone hoax going on in at least one gem store: They ask you to bring the stones to your own country to a "buyer" who doesn't exist. In general, try not getting involved with any local guide who is offering you services. They are mostly con men and goons.

Watch where you step: After sundown it is pitch dark, so bring a light.

Watch out for the sometimes brash food stealing monkeys too. They mostly "operate" on and around the foot bridges, and if you look them in the eyes they become aggressive, but rarely/never attack unless you carry food. Sadhus and police officers carry sticks to keep monkeys and cows/oxen at a distance. The brown monkeys are aggressive; the grey big languors are nicer. The greys sometimes steal food from tourists (not on the bridges), but mostly because their size scares the tourist. They don't bite you to get food.

Be alert if an ox is on your path: They are mostly harmless, but after dark they are sometimes nervous. Especially on the narrow foot bridges, you should try to read their body language before a close encounter.

Go next

Ordered by distance: Rajaji National Park — 20 minutes' drive. Founded in 1983, it was created by integrating three different sanctuaries: Motichur Sanctuary, Chilla Sanctuary and Rajaji Sanctuary. The park is nicely placed in green hills and foothills of the Shivalik mountain ranges. Haridwar — a Hindu pilgrimage site at the Ganges River, Dhanaulti — 84 km away, offering an atmosphere of peace and tranquillity. If you want to get away from the city crowd then just head towards the Dhanaulti. Mussoorie — 77 km away, one of the most visited hill stations in India, surrounded by green hills and rich in flora and fauna.

The following three seem to be very far away, but they are into the mountains and Rishikesh is one of the few cities to reach them from: Yamunotri — 215 km away with Yamunotri temple, the major tourist attraction, at 4,421 m. Kedarnath — 240 km away, it's one of the four Char Dham Yatra Hindu pilgrim centers, at 3,400 m, which you need to hike at least 16 km to. Govindghat — 224 km away, "beyond" Kedarnath. It's the gateway to the Hemkunt pilgrimage site and the Valley of Flowers.