Tashkent

Understand

This area is an oasis in an arid land, and from the 5th century BC a town grew up called Chach, which eventually morphed into "Tashkent", city of stone. Conditions suited settled agriculture rather than a nomadic way of life, but the nomad warlord Genghis Khan wrecked Tashkent in 1220. It recovered through trade, and there was a golden age of mosque building through the 15th century, but the medieval city was outshone by Samarkand and Bukhara. What promoted it into central Asia's greatest city was industrialisation and Russian colonisation from the 19th century.

The original town centre was west of the Chirchiq river, around Chorsu Bazaar. A Russian new town developed east of the river through the tsarist then Soviet eras, boosted during the Second World War when the USSR moved strategic industries and workforce here beyond the reach of Nazi attack. Great damage was caused by the earthquake of 26 April 1966, and the ruins were bulldozed to lay out a modern grid of long, wide boulevards.

Tashkent became the capital of Uzbekistan upon independence in 1991, and its leaders sought to create a showcase city and symbol of national identity. What has come about is a mix of the grandiose, the corporate, and the crumbling. It's impressive rather than beautiful, but never less than fascinating.

The climate is harshly continental with hot summers and cold winters. The best times to visit are Apr-May and Sep-Oct.

Get in

thumb | 300px | Tashkent TV Tower

Do

National Library of Uzbekistan is a pseudo-classical building at Navoi 1 in the government quarter (Metro Mustakillik maydoni). It has a comprehensive stock, but you have to register (in Uzbek) to get in.

Drink

Tea (choy, чай) fuels Central Asia the way gasoline fuels Texas. It's usually taken black, without milk. Tap water safety is not guaranteed, drink bottled. Beware that ice (eg for drinks) is probably from unboiled tap water. Kuratny is the pricy bar, nightclub and shisha cafe within The Chimes on Amir Temur Square, open daily 13:00-03:00. Scandalist is a cocktail bar at Istiqbol 8, open Su-Th 12:00-01:00, F Sa 12:00-03:00. The Irish Pub at Taras Shevchenko 30 (by Ming O'rik Metro) smells like an authentic pre-1980s Irish boozer, heavy with cigarette smoke. It's open daily 12:00-00:00. Bier Regen is a microbrewery at Taraqqiyot 67 near Ashxobod Park, open daily 12:00-23:30.

Connect

As of Sep 2024, Tashkent and its approach highways have 4G from all Uzbek carriers, and city centre has 5G from Ucell and Uzmobile.

Stay safe

Tashkent is generally safe. Beware traffic, safeguard valuables, don't get mixed up in local politics like demonstrations and suspect a scam if a suave local approaches you.

Unified emergency service number: 112 - for all emergencies. A 24/7 service operating without holidays. Call here in any urgent situation.

Optionally, individual emergency numbers are 103 for medical, 101 for fire and 102 for police.

Seek advice from your accommodation on nearby medical, dental or pharmacy services. Standards of health care are well below those in the west, and anything serious will probably need a medical evacuation flight. Your hotelier will know which doctors and hospitals are doing their best within limited facilities, and which are seeking to empty your wallet.

Go next

Samarkand and Bukhara are the fabulous highlights of the Silk Road. Shahrisabz has the tomb intended for Timur, but he never reached it. Almaty in Kazakhstan is a Soviet-era city on a grid pattern, with lots to do and see.