Utena

Understand

Utena is first documented in 1261. It was a provincial capital and market town which grew from the 1830s when the St Petersburg-Warsaw highway was built this way, now the A6. It industrialised, and was rebuilt in stone after two fires ravaged its wooden structures in the 1890s. Utena was occupied by Germany from 1915 to 1918 then by the Soviets until 1919. It had a Jewish population of 2000 until 1941, when the Nazis wiped them out. Since World War II the town industries have been food processing, brewing, knitware and engineering.

Tourist information centre is at Bažnyčios g 1, just off Utenio Aikštė the main square, open M-F 09:00-18:00.

Get in

Utena is 92 km north of Vilnius, take A14 north past Molėtai. From Kaunas take A6 northeast past Ukmergė; this road continues to Zarasai and across the border to Daugavpils in Latvia.

Buses from Vilnius run every hour or two, taking 1 hr 40 min via Molėtai and continuing to either Obeliai and Rokiškis, or to Kupiškis and Biržai, or to Zarasai.

From Kaunas three direct buses daily take 2 hr 30 min, otherwise go via Vilnius. For times and fares see Autobusu Bilieitai.

the bus station is on A Baranausko g, 500 west of town centre.

Get around

The central sights are within walking distance. Local buses criss-cross the town.

Taxi firms are Ausros taksi (+370 389 53555), Aukstakalnio taksi, (+370 389 71819), A Kazicko (+370 389 61111) and Iki pasimatymo (+370 389 51555).

See

is a pleasant area for strolling and relaxing. "Musical fountains" by its pier are supposed to play the tune of your choice if you text them, but they're often broken. thumb | 300px | Church of the Ascension of Christ (Dievo Apvaizdos bažnyčia) on Aušros g is the town's second RC church, completed in 2005 when the congregation grew so large that it made sense to divide the parish. It's red brick. is an earthwork once topped by a wooden castle. Rickety wooden steps lead to the top: not much view as the area is overgrown.

Do

Football: FK Utenis Utena play soccer in II Lyga, the third tier. Their home ground Utenis Stadium (capacity 3000) is 2 km north of town centre. Basketball: Juventus play in Lietuvos krepšinio lyga (LKL), the top tier, at Utenis Stadium. City Anniversary is held on the first weekend in September.

Buy

Iki is the downtown supermarket, at J Bartašiaus 1, open daily 08:00-21:00. Maxima have a branch at J Basanavičiaus g 3 near the museum, open daily 08:00-22:00, and another on Aušros g next to the Church of Providence.

Eat

Along Basanavičiaus gatve the main street are Food Lab, Burgundija, Seklycha, Canteen Sanlora and Pizza Verde. Skonių Fontanas north at Aušros g 37 is Japanese, just for a change.

Drink

thumb | 300px | Church of Divine Providence Bar Kontaktai at Aušros g 11A and Palletts Bar at Maironio 4 are the most central. Brewery: Švyturys-Utenos Alus make a variety of ales at Pramonės g, 3 km east of town centre. They're nowadays part of Carlsberg.

Connect

As of Feb 2024, Utena has 4G from Bite and Tele2, and 5G from Telia.

Go next

Vilnius is a must-see for its extensive old town. Daugavpils in Latvia has an old centre ranged around its fortress.