Rennes

Understand

Rennes has long been one of the main towns of Brittany, but until 1806 it was overshadowed by the capital and Atlantic port Nantes. Then under Napoleon I Bonaparte, Nantes lost that role and indeed was removed from Brittany, so Rennes came to the fore. Its small river Vilaine was canalised and made navigable, and connected to other towns, so freight and industry were boosted even before the arrival of the railway. Its higgledy-piggledy medieval streets and half-timbered houses were mostly lost to a great fire in 1720, and replaced by stately stone mansions on a grid pattern, though the area east of the cathedral retains some of its older style.

The city was badly damaged in the Second World War: in 1940 German bombing hit an ammunition train parked next to troop and refugee trains, the day before the occupation of the city; and then it was heavily bombed by the Allies in 1943 and 1944. Postwar Rennes developed metal-bashing heavy industries, but as elsewhere in the West these succumbed to Asian competition from the 1970s. There were many strikes, demos and riots. From the 1990s the city regrouped around telecoms and service industries. The university also grew, so modern Rennes has a large student population, which gives it a bit of a buzz. Traditionally the students throng the bars on Thursday nights.

The climate is Atlantic: it can rain any day, though not as much as on the coast: see the Météo forecast.

is the Tourist Office, at 1 Rue Saint-Malo 50 m north of Metro .…

Get around

thumb | 300px | Rue du Chapitre in Old Town Walking is always first choice in the compact city centre.

See

thumb | 300px | Portes Mordelaises

Espace des Sciences is also within Les Champs Libre, same hours. The planetarium is €7, exhibitions €7, "Merlins lab" €5, and the combi ticket valid for a year is €19. is the last remaining city gate. Rennes acquired city walls and gates in the 3rd century AD, but the present structure is 15th century, when the gate and alley towards the cathedral were the principal entrance to the city. This route led 15 km west to the village of Mordelles, hence the name. Old town with half-timbered houses (maisons à pans de bois) is best preserved is the little streets just east of the cathedral, such as Rue Saint-Sauveur, Rue Saint-Guillaume, and Rue du Chapitre. Most were lost in the fire of 1720, after which the northern districts were rebuilt in stone on a grid pattern. Saint-Sauveur Basilica is in the Old Town 50 m east of the cathedral. It was rebuilt in the 18th century in classical style. Church of Saint-Pierre & Saint-Etienne is the parish church, somehow squeezed in between cathedral and basilica. is a grand building that since 1804 has housed the regional Court of Appeal - Brittany's parliament was abolished during the Revolution. It was badly damaged by fire during demonstrations in 1994, but restored as before. There are occasional guided tours.

thumb | 200px | Parc du Thabor

Notre-Dame-en-Saint-Melaine faces the park. It was an abbey church, and served as the city's "pro-cathedral" while Saint-Pierre was rebuilt in the early 19th …

Do

thumb | 300px | Place de la République Théâtre National de Bretagne is at 1 Rue Saint-Hélier, 500 m north of the railway station. Opera de Rennes is on Place de la Mairie just south of Parliament. Cinemas in city centre are Cinéma Arvor south side of the railway station, and Pathé Rennes by Charles de Gaulle metro station. Football: Fest Noz is Breton for "festival of the night" - an evening of traditional music and dancing. See the Tamm Kreiz website for upcoming events, which are usually inexpensive. See also below for the biggest, Yaouank in Oct / Nov.

Buy

thumb | 300px | Parliament of Brittany Columbia is a shopping centre at 40 Place du Columbier, 300 m northwest of the railway station. Trois Soleils is its east end fronting Rue de l'Alma. La Visitation is a small mall east side of Place Sainte-Anne. Galleries Lafayette is an upmarket department store on 1 Rue de Rohan northwest of Place de la République. Rue d'Orléans and Rue le Bastard are the principal retail streets, connecting Place de la République with Place Sainte-Anne. Large malls on the edge of the city include Centre Alma, Cleunay, Grand Quartier and Cesson-Sévigné. Le marché des Lices is the main city market, on Place des Lices just north of the cathedral on Saturday 06:00 - 13:30. Established in 1622, this fresh-food market is spread out over several streets and halls. There are 20 markets across the city, and about the same in outlying parts.

Eat

Galette-saucisse je t'aime, J'en mangerai des kilos! Dans toute l'Ille-et-Vilaine, Avec du lait ribot ! - sung by the fans of Stade Rennais FC

Galettes are Breton salted crêpes made with buckwheat flour, and galettes-saucisses are roasted pork sausage wrapped in a galette. Lait ribot is half-fermented milk, sometimes served with boiled chestnuts. thumb | 300px | Galettes-saucisse

Drink

Most bars close midnight to 01:00; late bars to 03:00 include Contrescarpe, La Place and Café Cactus.

Sleep

thumb | 300px | Cathedral interior

Stay safe

thumb | 300px | Parc du Thabor Standard advice over care of valuables, traffic, and staying clear of unruly drunks.

Connect

As of June 2022, Rennes has 5G from all French carriers.