رن

Understand

Rennes has long been one of the main towns of Brittany, but until 1806 it was overshadowed by the capital and Atlantic port Nantes. Then under Napoleon I Bonaparte, Nantes lost that role and indeed was removed from Brittany, so Rennes came to the fore. Its small river Vilaine was canalised and made navigable, and connected to other towns, so freight and industry were boosted even before the arrival of the railway. Its higgledy-piggledy medieval streets and half-timbered houses were mostly lost to a great fire in 1720, and replaced by stately stone mansions on a grid pattern, though the area east of the cathedral retains some of its older style.

The city was badly damaged in the Second World War: in 1940 German bombing hit an ammunition train parked next to troop and refugee trains, the day before the occupation of the city; and then it was heavily bombed by the Allies in 1943 and 1944. Postwar Rennes developed metal-bashing heavy industries, but as elsewhere in the West these succumbed to Asian competition from the 1970s. There were many strikes, demos and riots. From the 1990s the city regrouped around telecoms and service industries. The university also grew, so modern Rennes has a large student population, which gives it a bit of a buzz. Traditionally the students throng the bars on Thursday nights.

The climate is Atlantic: it can rain any day, though not as much as on the coast: see the Météo forecast.

is the Tourist Office, at 1 Rue Saint-Malo 50 m north of Metro .…

Get around

thumb | 300px | Rue du Chapitre in Old Town Walking is always first choice in the compact city centre.

See

thumb | 300px | Portes Mordelaises

Espace des Sciences is also within Les Champs Libre, same hours. The planetarium is €7, exhibitions €7, "Merlins lab" €5, and the combi ticket valid for a year is €19. is the last remaining city gate. Rennes acquired city walls and gates in the 3rd century AD, but the present structure is 15th century, when the gate and alley towards the cathedral were the principal entrance to the city. This route led 15 km west to the village of Mordelles, hence the name. Old town with half-timbered houses (maisons à pans de bois) is best preserved is the little streets just east of the cathedral, such as Rue Saint-Sauveur, Rue Saint-Guillaume, and Rue du Chapitre. Most were lost in the fire of 1720, after which the northern districts were rebuilt in stone on a grid pattern. Saint-Sauveur Basilica is in the Old Town 50 m east of the cathedral. It was rebuilt in the 18th century in classical style. Church of Saint-Pierre & Saint-Etienne is the parish church, somehow squeezed in between cathedral and basilica. is a grand building that since 1804 has housed the regional Court of Appeal - Brittany's parliament was abolished during the Revolution. It was badly damaged by fire during demonstrations in 1994, but restored as before. There are occasional guided tours.