Sudan

See

thumb|The ruined ancient city of Musawwarat is one of the country's most important archaeological sites. In Khartoum/Omdurman you must see the Sufi ritual of drumming and trance dancing, about one hour before sunset and Friday prayer. These rituals take place northwest of the Nile river in Omdurman. Very welcoming, festive atmosphere.

A walk around Tuti Island, situated in the middle of the confluence of the two branches of the Nile, can take about four hours. The less populated northern section is pretty, with its shady lanes, and irrigated fields, and there is a great little coffee stall under a tree on the western side.

The pyramids of Meroe are 2.5 hours north of Khartoum (leave early to avoid Khartoum traffic). On the same route visit the sites of Naqa and Musawarat. Permits are required before visiting the sites. You pay at each site (which may depend on how well your driver gets along with the guards). Naqa and Musawarat are signposted beside the Nile Petrol station (about 1 hour 15 minutes north of Khartoum) and the track is fairly clear but sandy. It is probably good to carry a GPS to avoid getting lost in the bush.

After 16:00 take a good coffee at the Burj Al-Fatih - also known as Corinthia hotel -, with high altitude view over Khartoum, the Nile, and Omdurman, and stay to watch the sunset. Worthwhile.

About 1½ hours south of Khartoum visit the dam. Just north of the dam (downstream) the Nile is also very wide; on Friday/Saturday the area is popular is day visi…

Drink

thumbnail|Traditional Sudanese coffee jug Islam is the official religion of the country, and alcohol has been banned since sharia was imposed in the 1980s. Sudanese people frequently drink tea, usually sweet and black. Sudan also has some refreshing drinks such as karkade (hibiscus) which can be served hot or chilled, aradeeb (tamarind) and gongleiz (made with the baobab fruit). The local energy drink is a carbohydrate-laden drink known as madeeda. There are several types of madeeda, made with dates, dukhun (millet) or other ingredients blended with fresh milk, and usually heavily sweetened with sugar, though reduced-sugar versions may be available if you ask. Sudanese coffee is available in most souks and is similar to Turkish style coffee; thick and strong, sometimes flavoured with cardamom or ginger with a powerful kick and altogether delicious. Not to be taken before bed though if you want an undisturbed night's sleep!

However, while alcohol is strictly illegal in the Muslim north, locally-brewed alcohol is widely available in various forms and at various degrees of potency. A local beer (merissa) brewed from sorghum or millet is cloudy, sour and heavy and likely to be brewed with untreated water and will almost certainly lead to the 'Mahdi's revenge' (the Sudanese version of 'Delhi belly'). Aragi is a pure spirit distilled from sorghum or in its purest form, dates. It is potent and should be treated with respect, and beware that it is sometimes contaminated with the lik…

Stay safe

Safety in Sudan has many dimensions. On one hand, theft is almost unheard of, you'll never be robbed in the street and people will go to great lengths to ensure your well-being. On the other hand, Sudan has a long history of conflict, the government is not particularly open or accountable, and under the surface corruption is rife.

Sudan is an Islamic country and consumption of alcohol is illegal. Extra-marital relations, including having a guest in a hotel room, is illegal, with severe penalties.

Stay healthy

thumb|Somewhere in the Upper Nile region Sudan is a malarial region, so be especially cautious during the rainy season. Poisonous snakes, spiders and scorpions are common in the southern areas.

Be cautious when drinking water. Make sure you choose bottled water, or use purifying tablets. Also, avoid any fruit drinks, as they are obviously made with the local water. And remember, that any ice cubes (for example, in sodas) are only frozen local water.

On long trips (particularly during the hot season) on public transport it is often impossible - or would be expensive - to carry the amount of bottled water you need, and it may be scarce at certain remote stops. Therefore, keep plenty of your chosen means of purification close at hand (not in your luggage strapped to the roof!). Sanitation in some areas is nonexistent, so wash your hands frequently.

Food from streetside vendors is generally fine if it is being prepared and served frequently. Empty restaurants and street cafes often indicate that food is standing uncovered and unrefrigerated for hours at a time.

Sudanese currency is notoriously dirty, and even the Sudanese handle small bills as little as possible. A hint would be to carry antibacterial wipes or gel in your luggage to treat your hands after handling filthy currency notes or shaking too many unwashed hands.

Sudan reported Ebola outbreaks in 2004 and it is not advised to take local hospital treatments unless there is a real urgency. If you have malaria-like symp…

Respect

In general, the Sudanese are hospitable, sociable people. They consider it shameful to give someone a poor welcome, so you can expect to be treated with immense respect as a tourist.

Connect

Internet and telephone services remain unreliable and may be blocked or suspended at short notice (Apr 2022).