Kars

Understand

Kars is in the far northeast of Turkey, near the borders with Georgia and Armenia. It's been battled over repeatedly down the centuries but what marks its landscape now are the conflicts with Russia and with the Armenians. Russia muscled in on Ottoman territory since the time of Catherine the Great, and western powers tried to check this by supporting Turkey, notably during the Crimea War. They had limited success and much of the Caucasus came under Tsarist control. Russia captured Kars in 1878 and held it until 1920, building a modern city on a grid pattern. This area had been an Armenian kingdom in medieval times, and ethnic Armenians preferred the Russians to the Turks: pretext for the genocide against them in 1915.

Kars is at an altitude of 1800 m and even in summer the nights are cold. Winter nights often plunge below -25°C and the snow lies thick. Kar is Turkish for snow - it's probably not the origin of the town's name, but one reason that Orhan Pamuk's 2002 novel Snow () is set here. It follows an expat poet returning to town, getting embroiled in the tensions between western thought and Islamic radicals, and of course the town gets cut off by snow so everyone is trapped together.

Get around

Most sights of interest are in a small walkable area around the castle and Kümbet mosque.

The tourist bus to Ani leaves from Faik Bey Cd at the intersection of Gazi Ahmet Muhtar Paşa Cd. It sets off around 08:30 to 09:00, takes an hour, and sets off back at 12:45.

See

thumb | 300px | Silverware in Kars Museum Downtown was laid out on a grid during the Russian occupation of 1878-1918. Here and there are black basalt townhouses in what's called "Baltic style", especially to the southwest, but mostly it's late 20th century tat. Vaizoğlu Mosque at the foot of castle hill was first built in 1580. It's been wrecked and restored several times, with the last rebuild in 1976. means "stone bridge". It's a three-arch bridge 53.5 m long and 8.40 m wide, crossing the river south of the castle. It was built in 1579 and still carries traffic. It's bracketed by two hamams, neither in use. İlbeyoğlu Muradiye Hamam on the north bank was built in 1774 AD, Cuma Hamam on the south bank in 1863. Namık Kemal's House is just south of the bridge. He was a 19th century journalist and political activist who stayed here awhile, then legged it before the authorities could whack him. The house is now an annexe for the city council, no tours. Mazlum Ağa Hamam just south of Namık Kemal's House is 18th century. It's not in use. Evliya Mosque was built from 1579 just south of Kümbet Mosque. The mausoleum adjacent is the tomb of Abu al-Hassan al-Kharaqani (963-1033 AD), a Sufi teacher. thumb | 300px | Fethiye Mosque Grand Mosque (Ulu Cami) is just north of Kümbet Mosque. It was built in 1643 AD but wrecked by war and earthquakes in the 19th / 20th century. It was rebuilt as a mosque in 1997. Gazi Ahmet Muhtar Paşa Mansion is a small museum in the home of a commander…