Asmara is the capital and largest city of Eritrea, located at a high elevation that makes it the second-highest capital in Africa. The city gained international recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2017 due to its well-preserved Italian modernist architecture.
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Electric power is not available throughout the day, although it depends a lot in which part of the city you are and also in which season. In the central part there is power mainly between afternoon and the early morning. So you should charge your phone and camera when you are able to. Power cuts are common, specially in the rainy season so you might be without power for some days in some cases.
The internet connection is very slow. Don't expect to be able to do more than receiving and sending emails. But there are many internet cafes where you can buy a ticket to use the wifi (~Nkf 20 per hour).
If you are entering the country without a visa, as a holder of an Eritrean ID card in combination with a foreign passport, you are required to register with the Immigration and Nationality office in Asmara within seven business days of entry into the country.
thumb|300px|Asmara main street, Harnet Avenue thumb|300px|A bus stop in Asmara thumb|300px|A street in Asmara
Asmara has 10 downtown bus-lines on distinctive Red Mercedes Benz buses, with a sign in the front saying where they're headed (oftentimes in Latin script). The bus stops are easily identifiable (there are signs and an obvious shelter with a bench), but the buses stop running quite early in the evening (about 19:00). They run on 15-30 minute intervals during the day (every day), but there is no fixed or published schedule. The roads get pretty jammed at rush hours (in the morning, midday and around 16:00). The fare is about Nkf 2, and the entrance is in the back where one buys the ticket. It is not necessary to have exact change, but one should try to pay in lower denominations.
Line number 1 goes between the airport, 3 km south of the city, and the former zoo in Biet Ghiorghis, 2 km (1 mi) east of the city on the eastern escarpment (the windy road to the Red Sea begins after Biet Ghirogis). Number 1 also passes through the main streets in downtown Asmara (Independence and Martyrs Avenues). All bus lines that begin with 2 (e.g. 21, 22), run between the marketplace downtown and the surrounding villages, but there are only a few a day. Therefore, plan to leave early in order to be able to return the same day. Only the locals know the schedule (through word of mouth). If you're lucky one of them speaks English and will be very helpful. Some villages like Embaderho and T…
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thumb|300px|Italian Art Deco-style "Roma Theater" thumb|300px|Opera Theater (Teatro d'opera) Asmara's main attraction is its World Heritage listed colonial Italian architecture. The palm-lined main street "Harnet Avenue" is colloquially referred to as "Kombishtato" (a creole of the neighbourhood's original name: Campo Cintato) meaning fenced area. It is full of cafés, bars, shops and old cinemas, and it makes for a nice mile long stroll between the eastern end of this avenue where the "half" stadium is (you'll know when you see half a bleacher) and the western end where the Government palace is. Asmara's colourful and bustling marketplace lies north of the Catholic cathedral. It's a great place to learn how to haggle and buy some souvenirs.
From the café on the top floor of the Nyala Hotel, one has a great view of the city while enjoying a nice well-chilled beer. The beer is exceptionally good in Asmara, aptly called "Asmara Beer". Behind the hotel in the quieter Maryam Gmbi Street is the National Museum. It's a modest museum well worth visiting with a collection of artifacts spanning over five millennia of the land's history (the museum is closed on Wednesdays and open all other days between 08:00 and 11:00 and 15:00 and 17:00).
On the Massawa Road in the outskirts of the city you can see the spectacular scenery of the eastern escarpment. There was a zoo there but it closed many years ago. Further down the road, one reaches Bar Durfo, a bar and café perched on a cliff over…
If you are in Asmara for a short stay, the best thing to do after you're done sightseeing in this city is to head for the outskirts where the scenery is stunning at the very least.
Unless you come from a high altitude area yourself, you may need a couple of days of strolling in Asmara to get your body used to the thin dry air at 2,300 m.
Bring lots of sunscreen lotion but also a sweater as it can get really chilly not only at night but even when standing in the shade (temperatures can vary greatly on different sides of the same street depending on the position of the sun). The sun shines very bright throughout the day in Africa, especially so in Asmara where clouds are rare, so unless you enjoy squinting, bring UV blocking shades.
If you like hiking, rock climbing and mountainbiking, the above mentioned areas outside of town are excellent places to do so, but bring your own gear (including bike) as there are no rental bikes and a very limited supply of safety equipment (shoes, ropes, etc.) in Asmara. However, tents and mosquito nets are readily available at an affordable price in the marketplace downtown. Also consult the locals and bring a guide, because it is good to have someone familiar with the place who speaks the local language in case of an accident or any other eventuality (like what is legal and not legal). For example, taking pictures around any government installation or authority (police, airport, ministries etc.) is strictly forbidden, and your guide can help…
Gold and silver jewellery is cheap in Asmara and is definitely a bargain by world standards. So are frankincense and myrrh.
Otherwise most of the souvenirs bought by tourists are the local home-spun and gold-thread embroidered cotton garments, traditional goat-skin rugs, olivewood carvings, ceramic coffee-pots and other traditional knick-knacks; all of which are found at the marketplace.
thumbnail|Enjera is eaten in Asmara with many side dishes
For traditional food (injera), you have many options, for example Hamassien Restaurant on Seraye Street. If you are looking for cheaper options than restaurants you should try fast food restaurants or snack bars. They have not just burger but also Eritrean food like fuul, silsi, salata, fata and others. It consists in bread rolls with a tasty sauce. Just try different ones and pick your favourite.
If you miss Chinese food and Indian food. Beside Sunshine hotel in Tiravolo there is a government building to the left. It's an embassy or Eritrean government building. Hop in the elevator go to the 5th floor. It's called Grassroots cafe. Also Bar Bereket if you want Kitcha fit-fit and shai. If you want Seafood there is Paradiso restaurant in Mai-temenai (sadly seafood sucks in Asmara). You got to go to Cherhi in Abashawel and just enjoy the 360-degree view of Asmara and get your self a latte or espresso.
If you want ice cream and don't want to be sick, go to the Gelateria da Fortuna, lead by an Italian. Ice cream is definitely not cheap here but tastes as good as in Italy. It is a hundred meters south east of Mai Jah Jah. If you eat ice cream anywhere else in Asmara you will get the runs.
If you want good pastries and coffee and tea just stroll around the center and pick any of the cafés, there are a lot of them in Harnet Avenue and Sematat Avenue. Near Edaga Ekli there is a place called Pharmacy Hamassien.
Eritrea is not a big wine country, even though it used to have a wine-making tradition during the colonial period. On the other hand, Eritrea is a big beer-drinking country, and the Eritrean beer is definitely a good one. There is only one brewery in the country (Asmara Beer) producing only one type of beer (Pilsner), that's why they don't even need to put a label on the bottle. Asmara Beer is great, quenches your thirsty throat and has a good taste. It has around 5% alcohol per volume and a nice hop flavour in the well known bottle.
Nightlife in Asmara is often considered quieter than most other country capitals, but there are a good range of local bars. Prostitution is legal and rife.
Asmara is an extremely safe city, safe enough for a stroll in the middle of the night. Most people are genuinely friendly, without wanting anything in exchange, beggary and "hustling" is not as common as in most other third world countries and neither is tourism. However, homosexuality is illegal and "homosexual activity" can lead to imprisonment; the Eritrean penal system is opaque and the penalties are unclear.
Embasoira Hotel, behind Independence Avenue (on the east side). Hamassien Hotel, right next door to the Embasoira. The Swiss-cottage-looking building. Sunshine Hotel, near the Roof Garden restaurant. Selam Hotel, a few blocks away from the Presidential Palace and the National Museum and has a nice garden. The Crystal Hotel behind Cinema Roma, similar to the Sunshine Hotel. Asmara Central Hotel, good value, directly beside Harnet Avenue in Mata Street
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